Cartier, at the Watches and Wonders 2022 exhibition at Switzerland's Geneva, presents a panoply of new timepieces. Cartier fans and the watch community welcome the novelties - the Tank Louis Cartier, the Pasha de Cartier, the Santos-Dumont, the Panthère de Cartier, the Coussin de Cartier, the Crash de Cartier, watches in the Cartier Privé collection, and the Masse Mystérieuse. Let's dig in to explore these Cartier 2022 watches.
Tank Louis Cartier
Last year, Cartier unveiled a Tank Louis Cartier watch whose dial featured the rectangle-within-a-rectangle motif that first appeared on a Must de Cartier watch from the 1980s. This year, monochrome dials are what Cartier presents - red and anthracite grey. These pieces have undergone some interesting refinements, like from the 12 classic hour marks, just four remain and the rail track is absent.
To add depth to the rich shades, Cartier's craftspeople used -- for the first time at Cartier -- an innovative electrochemical engraving technique that allows for very high-precision markings. For the red Tank Louis Cartier, the luxury watchmaker has used the lacquer technique to create its dial and a galvanised finish has been given to the grey model.
With a thickness of 6.6mm for both the models, the red iteration is offered in a yellow gold case and the grey finds its home inside a rose gold body. Both the pieces have their crowns set with a sapphire cabochon. The red is paired with a red alligator leather strap while the grey one has been completed with a grey alligator leather strap. Driving the pieces is Manufacture 1917 MC manual-winding movement that delivers a power reserve of around 38 hours.
Complementing the duo in red and grey is the third version of Tank Louis Cartier. Its white lacquer set against the deep black of the dial renders a splendid contrast. Fully redesigned in 2021 to reflect the brilliance of the Tank Louis Cartier, the 2022 edition of the Tank Must features an all-black dial. This new version is now available in both small and large models.
Both the large and small models, available in a steel case, offer a thickness of 6.6mm. The two pieces have their crowns set with a blue synthetic spinel cabochon and are offered on a black alligator leather strap. These pieces are driven by a quartz movement.
Pasha de Cartier
The Pasha de Cartier was born in 1985 and since then has been lauded by the collectors and the community. The Pasha de Cartier Grille in 2022 comes with a strong design appeal - the square inside the circle and the four oversized Arabic numerals. Its surface has been entirely hand-polished. Cartier has developed a novel system, which finds support in four tiny clasps with a very complex spring to scale. This enables it to be detached easily. It is easy to wear the watch with or without it, offering two different styles.
The Pasha de Cartier Grille watch is available in an all-gold 41mm version and in 30 and 35mm jewellery versions. The 41mm and 35mm models are driven by the Manufacture 1847 MC automatic movement, while the 30mm model is offered with a quartz movement. The 41mm watches are available in interchangeable QuickSwitch blue and dark grey alligator leather straps; the 35mm pieces in interchangeable QuickSwitch blue and purple alligator leather straps; and 30mm in interchangeable QuickSwitch red and grey alligator leather straps.
Next in line are Pasha de Cartier watches with complications - moonphase, skeleton, and flying tourbillon. In the moonphase model, a sophisticated moonphase movement in the shape of a circle is surrounded by a midnight-blue planisphere drizzled with stars. Equipped with the Manufacture 1904 LU MC movement which delivers a power reserve of around 48 hours, the watch is available in an all-gold or steel version. The watches feature blue markers on the dial, framed either in gold or steel. The timepieces are paired with interchangeable QuickSwitch blue and grey alligator leather straps.
A signature skeleton movement -- the 9524MC calibre with a power reserve of around 48 hours -- drives the openworked Pasha de Cartier, which features the Arabic numerals on the skeletonised dial. This timepiece is offered in two versions - a limited-edition white gold jewellery version set with baguette-cut diamonds and a steel version with black ADLC for the case and Super-LumiNova® for the bridges and hands.
The Flying Tourbillon 9552 MC calibre, with hours and minutes, powers the Pasha de Cartier flying tourbillon watch. Put inside a 41mm rose gold case paired with a leather strap, this Flying Tourbillon looks distinguished with its cage signed with a C. Its crown has been set with a sapphire cabochon and with the engine, it achieves a power reserve of around 50 hours.
In the lineup is a Pasha de Cartier chronograph, powered by the Manufacture 1904-CH MC automatic movement, which offers a power reserve of around 47 hours. The chronograph finds its home inside a 41mm steel case that has been paired with a dark grey alligator leather strap or a SmartLink steel bracelet.
Panthère de Cartier
The Panthère de Cartier is Cartier's jewellery watch. The curved and polished links of its bracelet make it extremely supple. Launched in 1983, the new version of the watch is a chic piece that is available in four variations in rose gold, yellow gold, and steel, with a dial in shades of golden plum, midnight blue, and black.
The rose gold Panthère de Cartier has a bezel set with 36 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.23K) and a crown set with a brilliant-cut diamond (0.02K). This model completes its look with a rose gold bracelet. The yellow gold model has a crown set with a sapphire cabochon and comes paired with a yellow gold bracelet. Out of two steel models that come paired with a steel bracelet, one has a bezel set with 36 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.23K) and its crown with a blue synthetic spinel cabochon. The other steel reference is the same as its steel sibling, sans the diamond-set bezel. All the four models are driven by a quartz movement.
Coussin de Cartier
The Coussin de Cartier features a cushion shape as part of a collection consisting of gold and diamond versions, two tone versions, and an experimental version. These delicate watches feature coloured stones or diamonds. The gold and diamond versions offer different form factors. The white gold version and rose gold version are available in two case options - 30.44mm and 27.13 mm. Both the 30.44mm white and rose gold models have a case set with 176 brilliant-cut diamonds (3.97K), while the smaller iterations have a case set with 165 brilliant-cut diamonds (2.91K). All the crowns in the four references are set with a brilliant-cut diamond (0.13K). The white gold models come paired with a blue calf leather strap and the rose gold models are offered with a beige calf leather strap.
The two-tone versions focus on the use of stones - diamonds and black spinels, Paraiba tourmalines, and tsavorites. There are two dual tone Coussin de Cartier pieces offered in a 30.44mm case, either in yellow gold or white gold. The smaller 27.13mm case is made of white gold. The yellow gold model has its case, dial, and buckle set with 279 brilliant-cut diamonds (1.35K), 56 tsavorites, and 120 blue tourmalines. Numbered limited edition of 30 pieces, this model is offered with a blue calf leather strap.
The 30.44mm rose gold features a case, dial, and buckle set with 383 brilliant-cut diamonds (3.57K) and 72 black spinels. Numbered limited edition of 50 pieces, the timepiece has been paired with a black calf leather strap. The 27.13mm model on the other hand has its case, dial, and buckle set with 312 brilliant-cut diamonds (2.54K) and 66 black spinels. Numbered limited edition of 50 pieces, this watch comes paired with a black calf leather strap.
Cartier Manufacture's research and innovation laboratory has delivered two limited edition pieces that are creative and entirely paved with diamonds or coloured stones, emeralds, tourmalines, tsavorites, and sapphires. These two Coussin de Cartier timepieces come housed in a 39.3mm white gold case. The first model -- numbered limited edition of 250 pieces -- has a case, dial, and buckle set with 1,011 brilliant-cut diamonds (5.45K) and comes paired with a blue calf leather strap. Its sibling is also a numbered limited edition of 20 pieces, which features a case, dial and buckle set with 85 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.38K), 21 emeralds, 536 sapphires, 276 tsavorites, and 18 blue tourmalines. This one comes paired with a purple green gradient calf leather strap.
Crash Tigrée Métamorphoses Watch
Created in 1967, the Cartier Crash with its asymmetrical dial revolutionised the aesthetic codes of watchmaking. The stripes are made of champlevé enamelling on the bezel. The stripes are separated with lines of set diamonds that render a surreal contrast and shine, and the winding crown is set with an inverted pavilion diamond. The dial features metal engraving and enamelling.
First engraved, the scale or stripe motifs are enamelled on silver pailletes. Cobalt oxide (for the blue) and copper oxide (for the green) have been used to make the shades of blue and green. The timepiece is available in a limited edition of 50 individually numbered watches. Its yellow gold case has been paired with an iridescent calf leather strap.
The Cartier Privé collection
The Tank Chinoise watch marks the sixth chapter of Cartier Privé. Tank Chinoise was born in 1922 and its aesthetics pay tribute to the architecture of Chinese temples and the geometry of their porticos. The two new models of the Tank Chinoise, an overworked piece and an elegant hour-minute watch, are powered by two different movements.
The 9627 MC skeleton movement of the watch was developed by Cartier exclusively for this Tank Chinoise and the openworked dial reveals the workings of the movement. Inspired by Chinese savoir-faire, the black and red lacquer give an incredible depth to the timepiece. The hour-minute version comes in platinum, yellow gold, or rose gold, with horizontal bevelled-edge bars. Inside it beats the 430 MC movement, which is currently the Maison's finest mechanical movement.
The openworked Cartier Privé Tank Chinoise is available in yellow gold and steel cases, all with a diameter of 39.5mm. The 9627 MC manual winding movement delivers a power reserve of around 38 hours. The hour-minute models are offered in yellow gold case, 39.49mm rose gold case, and 39.49mm platinum case.
Masse Mystérieuse
Masse Mystérieuse's mystery lies in its beating heart, a mobile calibre condensed into a semi-circle, transformed into a skeletonised oscillating weight. The new calibre 9801 MC ensures the effects of gravity do not affect the chronometer. On the Masse Mystérieuse watch, the hands float in the space of the case, without being connected to any gears.
On this timepiece, the rotor uses an ingenious technique that ensures the balance wheel always remains in the same vertical position. For this, the rotor rotates in both directions at an irregular speed. Housed inside a 43.5mm platinum case, its crown has been set with a ruby cabochon. Numbered limited edition of 30 pieces, the timepiece has been paired with semi-matte dark grey and black alligator leather straps. Manufacture 9801 MC automatic movement drives the watch, achieving a power reserve of around 42 hours.