Geneva Watch Days 2025: De Bethune releases DB28xs Kind of Blue Tourbillon and DB25xs Starry Varius Rose Gold

Both models come with a slimmer profile tagged as ‘xs’
At Geneva Watch Days 2025, De Bethune unveiled two new ‘xs’ creations that distil its signature aesthetics and technical mastery into slimmer cases. The DB28xs Kind of Blue Tourbillon executed entirely in blued titanium and DB25xs Starry Varius Rose Gold celebrating celestial artistry with a burgundy-toned titanium dial white gold star-pins, and a 24k gold-leaf Milky Way motif. 

DB28xs Kind of Blue Tourbillon 



The brand plays with its signature De Bethune’s Blue again in a new timepiece, the DB28xs Kind of Blue Tourbillon. Encased in case measuring 38.7 mm in diameter and only 8 mm thick, there is a notable reduction in size compared to earlier DB28 references, hence the “xs” designation. It is executed entirely in blued grade 5 titanium, polished to a mirror finish. The watch displays hours, minutes, and a 30-second indicator via the exposed tourbillon at 6 o’clock. Polished titanium hands sweep across a titanium hour ring decorated with De Bethune’s signature blued microlight engraving and polished hour markers. The surrounding minutes and seconds ring is crafted in circular satin-finished, blued grade 5 titanium, while the bridges—barrel cover and triangular central bridge—are rendered in polished, blued titanium with sharp chamfered edges.


At the heart of the watch is the hand-wound Calibre DB2009v5, a construction of 238 components integrating a self-regulating twin barrel (a De Bethune innovation patented in 2004) and provides a robust 5-day power reserve. Along with it is a titanium balance with white gold inserts (De Bethune patent, 2016) – designed to optimize inertia, a flat-terminal curve balance spring (De Bethune patent, 2006) that ensures enhanced chronometry, and a silicon escape wheel  that is anti-magnetic. The ultra-light 30-second titanium tourbillon cage (2008 innovation) – weighing only 0.18 grams and oscillating at 36,000 vibrations per hour -- completes a rotation every 30 seconds for greater chronometric stability. The hand-crafted decoration, polished surfaces, and chamfered contours are done throughout the movement.  There is a screwed caseback in blued titanium, treated with double AR coating.


The watch is fitted with an extra-supple alligator leather strap with a pin clasp buckle in blued grade 5 titanium. The watch is a limited edition of 10 watches. 

DB25xs Starry Varius Rose Gold


The case of DB25xs Starry Varius is cast in polished 5N rose gold and polished grade 5 titanium, with a diameter of 40.6 mm and a slimness of 8.8 mm, integrated with hollowed lugs, enhancing both ergonomics and lightness. The dial of the DB25xs Starry Varius is a signature expression of De Bethune’s astronomical artistry. Its surface is crafted in polished titanium with a burgundy tone, onto which white gold pins are individually set by hand to represent stars. The Milky Way pattern is created through laser-beam micro-milling, then gilded with 24-karat gold leaf, producing a three-dimensional, luminous effect. There are hand-polished rose gold hands marking time on a silver-toned with applied polished rose gold markers and Roman numerals on the hour ring. 


Inside this watch beats the Calibre DB2005, a manually wound movement featuring a self-regulating twin barrel (patented in 2004), delivering a 6-day power reserve. The calibre is finished with silver plate and barrel bridge covered with 'Côtes De Bethune; decoration, hand-snailed barrels, and hand-polished, chamfered steel components visible from a sapphire caseback. The watch is paired with an alligator leather strap secured by a polished 5N rose gold ardillon buckle. 

Images: Courtesy brand  

Launched in 2012, WatchTime India is the result of a collaboration between America's most-read watch magazine, WatchTime and, India's leading media house, Malayala Manorama. With an aim to popularise and celebrate the evolving watch culture of the country, the publication is your one-stop destination for everything related to fine luxury watches. From the latest tests to reviews, to exclusive features on the history and horological heritage of some of the most spectacular watch brands of the world, the WatchTime India portal has a lot to offer. Stay tuned for an exciting journey, through the fascinating world of watches!

Sign up for our newsletters to have the latest stories delivered to your inbox


Sign up for our newsletters to have the latest stories delivered to your inbox