Indian auction house Astaguru’s upcoming auction of jewellery, silver, and timepieces, ‘The Exceptionals’, is set to go will at 10:30 AM IST on May 12 and closes on 8:30 PM on May 13, 2024. An extensive auction featuring 180 lots, it includes modern and vintage watches from brands like Rolex, Piaget, Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, and many more.
“The surge of interest in luxury and vintage watches among collectors over recent years has been remarkable,” says Jehangir Readymoney, AstaGuru’s Luxury Timepiece Expert. “We’re excited to meet this demand by presenting a selection of rare and limited edition timepieces from globally renowned brands. Whether you’re a seasoned watch enthusiast or a novice collector eager to acquire a unique piece, these watches are perfect additions to any collection.”
For all the bidding related details, head on over to the Astaguru’s website.
We combed the catalogue and found interesting watches, including the ‘Pyramid Dial’ Rolex DateJust (Ref. 16233), a Piaget Polo square case models (Ref. 7131C 701 POLO), a limited edition Cartier Tortue (Ref. 2617 J) and other such vintage as well as contemporary timepieces. In this article we have curated a list of top 13 vintage watches that hit the spot for us –
1. Lot 78: Rolex Datejust Pyramid Dial 18K Yellow Gold & Stainless Steel Wristwatch (Ref. 16233)
The vintage 36mm Rolex Datejust model in yellow gold and stainless steel has a solid 18K yellow gold fluted bezel. The timepiece comes with a rare ‘Pyramid Dial’ entailing 18K yellow gold Roman numeral hour markers and a date window at 3 o’clock. The watch is equipped with an automatic movement with Calibre 3135 and a 48-hour power reserve and is finished with a signed jubilee 18K yellow gold and steel bracelet with a folding clasp.
Estimate: ₹6,00,000 – 7,00,000
2. Lot 85: Piaget 18K Yellow Gold Wristwatch
Fully crafted in 18K yellow gold, the timepiece is incorporated with a textured gold dial featuring unique hour markers placement—on its slim bezel. Equipped with mechanical movement, the watch has a signed dial, case and movement.
Estimate: ₹3,00,000 – 4,00,000
3. Lot 92: Datejust (Buckley Dial) 18K Yellow Gold & Stainless Steel Wristwatch (Ref. 16013)
This 36mm Rolex Datejust model has a ‘Buckley dial’, a name given to a dial after the renowned Rolex collector John Buckley. The dial comes with printed Roman hour markers unlike applied numerals, closed outer minute track with tritium dots. Crafted in yellow gold and stainless steel, the watch is powered by an automatic movement with calibre 1570/3035, boasting a 44 hour power reserve.
Estimate: ₹4,50,000 – 6,50,000
4. Lot: 99: Piaget Polo 18K Yellow Gold Wristwatch (Ref. 7131C 701 POLO)
One of the most popular models from the brand’s archives, recently come back into the spotlight given the launch of the Piaget Polo 79, this Piaget Polo watch is entirely crafted in 18K yellow gold. It has a champagne dial and is completed with an integrated bracelet. Driving it is a quartz movement, Calibre 7P3 Quartz.
Estimate: ₹5,00,000 – 8,00,000
5. Lot 98: Rolex Datejust (Khanjar Caseback) Stainless Steel Wristwatch (Ref. 16220)
Another fascinating Datejust model at the auction. This 36mm stainless steel model’s closed caseback features a sought-after engraved Khanjar emblem. This symbol, featuring a j-shaped dagger laid over two crossed swords is the royal crest of Oman, made popular on dials by The Sultan of Oman, Qaboos bin Said, who ruled from 1970 till his death in 2020. The watch has a black dial with baton hour markers and a usual date window at 3 o’clock. Powering it is an automatic movement with calibre 3135 with a 48-hour power reserve.
Estimate: ₹5,00,000 – 8,00,000
6. Lot 101: Vacheron Constantin Overseas 18K Gold Wristwatch (Ref. 42050/423J)
The 37mm vintage Vacheron Constantin Overseas is crafted entirely in 18K yellow gold and features a notched bezel and an integrated two-body case, bracelet. The timepiece has a textured white dial with yellow gold indexes and a date window at 3 o’clock. The mechanical automatic Vacheron Constantin calibre 1310 drives the watch and provides an automaton of about 40 hours.
Estimate: ₹17,85,000 – 19,85,000
7. Lot: 106: Rolex Datejust (Khanjar Dial) Stainless Steel & 18k Yellow Gold Wristwatch (Ref. 16013)
The 36mm Rolex Datejust model crafted in 18K yellow gold and stainless steel features a Khanjar emblem
(explained in Lot 98) on the dial just above the 6 o’clock. The watch comes with a leather strap and is powered by the automatic movement with 36 hours power reserve.
Estimate: ₹5,00,000 – 6,00,000
8. Lot 117: Piaget Altiplano double Jeu (Ref. GOA32151)
Featuring two cases in one is the vintage Piaget Altiplano double Jeu, limited to only 50 pieces. The timepiece is entirely crafted in 18K rose gold and features two dials – one is a silver diamond dial with large diamonds on its bezel & the other is dark blue. The 43mm timepiece is finished with a brown crocodile strap.
Estimate: ₹15,00,000 – 20,00,000
9. Lot 125: Cartier Tortue 18k White Gold & Diamond Wristwatch (Ref. 2617 J)
Limited to 25 pieces, the timepiece is a very rare 34x43mm tonneau-shaped wristwatch with diamond set bezel and cloisonne dial displaying the enamelled white horse racing through mystical clouds and waves. The movement calibre 430 MC powers the fully white gold crafted watch. Read about the new Cartier Tortue model released at Watches and Wonders 2024 here.
Estimate: ₹38,00,000 – 48,00,000
10. Lot 127: Patek Philippe 18K White Gold Wristwatch (Ref. 3525)
Crafted fully in 18K white gold, this Patek Philippe model has a rare cushion-shaped case measuring 32x32mm. The elegant and dressy timepiece features a silvered brushed dial with Roman hour markers and a small seconds counter at 6 o’clock. The automatic calibre 27-460 powers the watch and a custom leather strap flanks the case.
Estimate: ₹8,00,000 – 9,00,000
11. Lot 144: Cartier Santos Octagon 18K Yellow Gold & Stainless Steel Wristwatch
Measuring 30mm in diameter, the vintage Cartier Santos Octagon is crafted in 18K yellow gold and stainless steel. The timepiece has an 18K gold octagon bezel and features a beautiful white dial with Roman hour markers, a date window at 3 o’clock, and blue hands. A mechanical movement winds the watch.
Estimate: ₹1,60,000 – 2,60,000
12. Lot 156: Bvlgari Octo (Jump Hour) 18K Pink Gold Wristwatch (Ref. BGOP43BGLDBR)
This is a striking Gérald Genta Octo Bi-retro model, crafted entirely in 18K pink gold. The 44mm timepiece features a jumping hour complication with retrograde minutes. The automatic calibre GG 7722 drives the watch and boasts a 44-hour power reserve.
Estimate: ₹2,00,000 – 4,00,000
13. Lot 180: Patek Philippe Nautilus Stainless Steel Wristwatch (Ref. 5726/1A-010)
Powered with the automatic movement PP Cal. 324 with 36-48 hours power reserve, the Patek Philippe Nautilus in stainless steel features time, day, and date, along with the moonphase complication on a piano white dial. A stainless steel bracelet flanks the case. This lot comes with the original wooden box, papers and a branded leather document holding sleeve.
Estimate: ₹77,50,000 – 90,00,000
Images: Courtesy Astaguru
