Watches and Wonders 2023 saw a range of novelties with distinct features. One such feature was luminescence, or a watch’s ability to allow readability in the dark via materials that glow or are luminescent. This attribute is especially handy in tool watches. Below is the list of such timepieces launched at the watch fair.
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Blacklight Spin-Stone
Roger Dubuis lit up its collection with the Excalibur Backlight Spin-Stone that flaunts the coveted Poinçon de Genève certification. The 42mm watch’s bezel and caseback are crafted in corrosion-resistant EON gold, with the former adorned with curved synthetic sapphires called Spin-stonesTM, in gradient hues of red, blue, pink, purple, and aqua, which feature luminescence. The double surface flange on the dial is plated in pink gold and also features gradient hues of the Spin-stonesTM, while the hour markers are plated with pink gold, polished, and filled with black Super-LumiNova.
These Spin-stonesTM are artificially created spinels whose multi-hues glow in the dark. These furthermore form the signature ‘X’ of the brand on the dial, adding another bright layer to the timepiece.
The calibre RD720SQ powers the watch and offers about 70 hours of reserve. The timepiece comes with a calf leather strap equipped with Quick Release System.
Speake Marin - The Academic Collection
Speake-Marin seeks inspiration from the opposing forces in Chinese cosmology, yin and yang, for the new Academic Collection. Available in two variations - Academic Black Tie and Academic White - the new models come in two sizes of 38mm and 42mm each.
Dressed to the nines, the new Academic Black Tie comes with a rich, polished black lacquer dial topped with applied Roman numeral hour markers at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock (Academic White has a white lacquer dial with similar hour markers). Each index is covered in Super-LumiNova and is 0.5mm tall. The dial also shows a small second counter with a grey chapter ring between 1 and 2 o’clock. The flange includes markings on the grey minutes track every five minutes in orange. The hands are plated in rhodium.
Equipped with the automatic Calibre SMA03 with a fully-integrated micro-rotor, the Academic Black Tie houses a 52-hour power reserve. The movement comes encased in grade 5 titanium with a large, fluted crown and sits on a black leather strap.
Hautlence Vagabonde x Black Badger
All about three-dimensionality and contrast, the new Vagabonde x Black Badger model is inspired by a 1980s arcade game - think pinball - and comes in a TV-shaped, satin-finished, and polished steel case with a planetary display of the wandering hours and minutes on a frosted Blackor base dial. Designed by the Black Badger himself, a moniker for artist James Thompson, the dial is topped with Orange 3D Badgerite® elements and white 3D Badgerite® minute numerals. Badgerite® is a 3D luminescent composite developed by James.
The base dial also includes an elevated sapphire minute dial and a central disc with rotating hours on matte black discs. Both elements offer a play on different levels and are domed with the case in extra-hard beveled sapphire crystal. Limited to 28 pieces, the Hautlence novelty is equipped with the matte black B30 in-house automatic movement and houses a power reserve of 72 hours. It is available on a blue rubber strap.
Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen
The Geosphere 0 Oxygen takes inspiration from the first mountaineer to climb all the 14 highest peaks, Reinhold Messer. On the 42mm titanium case, the bi-directional bezel is crafted in stainless steel with black ceramic, on which the cardinal points are engraved and coated with Super-LumiNova®. The Sfumato dark grey glacier pattern dial features Arabic numerals and indexes. The indices and hands are layered with white luminescence, as well as on the Northern and Southern hemispheres globes that feature Greenwich meridians in orange. The caseback features a 3D laser colour engraving of Mount K2.
Automatic manufacture Calibre MB 29.25 powers the watch with about 42 hours of reserve. The functions include a world timer with day and night indications, dual time, and date displayed by disc. The watch comes with an interchangeable titanium bracelet.
Panerai Radiomir California
For the first time ever, Panerai reveals the Radiomir California PAM 1349 in a 45mm case.
The cushion-shaped case is set in Brunito eSteelTM - another first by the brand - and accompanied by slim wire lugs, and a hollowed and textured green dial. Inspired by Ref 3646, the new PAM 1349 carries the characteristic alternating Roman and Arabic numerals, bar indexes, and a minute track. The iconic California indexes in beige are coated in Super-LumiNova and complement the metallic blue hands within the domed sapphire crystal. The watch also features a cone-shaped crown and sits on a supple calf leather raw-cut strap with dark brown stitching. The strap displays an exclusive hot-printed inscription of G. Panerai e Figlio.
The Radiomir California PAM 1349 is powered by the hand-wound P.5000 calibre and features an eight-day power reserve. The movement is visible through the sapphire crystal caseback.
Images: Courtesy brands
Also Read :
Watches and Wonders 2023: The watches that stood out
|
Watches and Wonders 2023: Patek Philippe unveils 17 new models in Geneva
More In features
Sign up for our newsletters to have the latest stories delivered to your inbox
