If one were to recount a short history of the iconic Zenith El Primero chronograph movement, it would go something like this: In 1969, the world’s first integrated, automatic, and high-frequency chronograph calibre, the Zenith El Primero 3019 PHC was born. Though a transformative movement that heralded a change in how chronographs would be developed from then on, in 1975, with the popularity of quartz rising, the production of this movement ceased when the ownership of Zenith changed hands. But Zenith watchmaker Charles Vermot secretly protected the calibre by collecting its technical data and tools and hiding them in the Manufacture’s attic. In the 1980s, as the Swiss mechanical watches regained demand, this high-frequency calibre also came back into the limelight, when brands like Ebel and Rolex gave orders to Zenith for this movement. In 1994, the brand’s ‘Chronomaster’ became the foremost collection that housed this calibre, followed by the Chronomaster Open in 2003 which allowed the wearer to see its beating heart through the partial opening in the dial. Next, the world’s first high-frequency tourbillon watch made its debut in 2004, and the movement went on to feature complications like minute repeater, dual-time, world-time, and split-second chronograph, among others.Today, the El Primero’s subsequent evolutions find pride of place in several Zenith designs.
Now the new Zenith DEFY Skyline Chronograph carries forward the legacy of the El Primero with the El Primero 3600 movement, a 50th anniversary version of the movement launched in 2019. A rather edgy design with crisp geometric lines, the watch combines vintage design cues with modern design. This is the first chronograph model in the collection and its driving force has a 60-hour power reserve, beats at 5Hz frequency, and offers 1/10th of a second chronograph function via its central seconds hand with a star-shaped counterweight – once the chronograph is started, it makes one speedy revolution in every 10 seconds. That necessitates a 60-seconds chronograph seconds counter which lies at 3 o’clock and there’s a 60-minute chronograph counter at 6 o’clock; there is a small seconds sundial at 9. Notably, the DEFY Skyline from 2022 lacked a central seconds hand, and the 1/10 of the second was measured through the small seconds subdial, the only subdial, at 9 o’clock – the movement was the El Primero 3620.
As Zenith likes to call it, the Zenith DEFY Skyline Chronograph is an all-occasion watch, it is sporty yet elegant. The 42mm stainless steel timepiece comes in three dial variations—metallic black (Ref. 03.9500.3600/21.I001), blue (Ref. 03.9500.3600/51.I001), or silver (Ref. 03.9500.3600/01.I001). The case is octagonal which is complemented by the dodecagonal (with 12 sides) bezel, conforming pushers, and a three-link steel bracelet which tapers smoothly, keeping the geometrics in balance. The screwdown crown helps provide a 100-metre water resistance and is embossed with the brand’s ‘star’ logo.
Textures come into play with the brand’s distinct starry-sky pattern where four pointed stars are engraved over the sunray-finished dial forming a captivating grid. The dial is also distinguishable with the El Primero configuration, which features three oversized chronograph counters that slightly overlap each other. The hands and hour markers are facetted, rhodium-plated, and coated with SuperLuminova SLN C1 for legibility in the dark. A date window peeks from 4:30, matching the colour of the dial, another significant feature of the DEFY Skyline. A faceted flange at the periphery of the dial bears the 1/10th of a second scale and its vertices act as an extension to the hour markers.
Blue
Metallic black
Silver
Other than the bracelet, the watch also comes with an additional sculpted, star-patterned rubber strap, which can be swapped easily thanks to the integrated quick strap-change mechanism. The rubber strap matches the colour of the dials for blue and black, and is green for the silver dial.
The Zenith DEFY Skyline Chronograph is priced at INR 11,88,000 (approx.) and is available for purchase at all ZENITH boutiques and authorised retailers.
Video and Images: Courtesy Zenith
