This year too Cartier has maintained its reputation of launching some of the most extensive collections at Watches and Wonders in 2024. The brand’s new additions join its Cartier Privé, the Animal Jewellery Watch Collection, and Santos de Cartier, along with the new Reflection de Cartier timepieces.
Cartier Privé Collection
Cartier adds two new models to its Privé collection with the relaunch of the Tortue watch, where one is a time-only watch and the other is a monopoussoir chronograph.
The first timepiece takes inspiration from the Tortue that was introduced in 1912 that emphasised curves and taut lines and carries only subtle changes. This is a simple time-only model and is unveiled in three versions, one in yellow gold and the other two in platinum where one is set with diamonds.
There are stretched horns along the strap and a slimmer profile, contributing to its lighter and more refined appearance. The dial, paying homage to the original model, boasts apple-shaped hands and a rail-track motif surrounding the hour markers. Complementing the yellow gold model, its dial has a finely grained golden finish, the crown is set with sapphire cabochon, and the strap is blue alligator leather. The platinum versions have a silvered opaline dial where the diamond set model has the same gem on the crown and the other has a red ruby cabochon. Both are paired with a red alligator leather strap that has a diamond set ardillon buckle. Powering the timepieces is the manual wound 430 MC movement. The diamond-set version is limited to 50 pieces and the other two are limited to 200.
The other, Tortue with a monopoussoir chronograph complication, was first seen in 1928 and reinterpreted in 1998 with a modern sophistication that included blued-steel apple-shaped hands, hollowed central seconds hand, and triangular motifs on the dial corners, all of have been carried to the novelty. Here are two versions - yellow gold case with grained gold-finish dial, sapphire cabochon, and interchangeable semi-matte blue and dark blue alligator leather straps; and platinum case with silvered opaline dial, ruby cabochon, and semi-matte burgundy red and shiny grey alligator leather interchangeable straps. The Roman numerals on the dial are outlined by a railway track for enhanced legibility and there are two chronograph counters. The chronograph's functionality is consolidated into a single push-button integrated into the crown. With 4.3mm thickness, the manual-wound Manufacture 1928 MC movement is the brand’s thinnest so far. Both watches are limited to 200 pieces.
Animal Jewellery Watch Collection
In 1914, Cartier first designed a watch case inspired by a panther’s coat. Taking the creativity forward, the brand has now added new models to the animal jewellery watch collection, powered by quartz movement.
For the set of first three, the brand has decorated the cases (in rose, white, and yellow gold) with hand-lacquered zebra stripes and coloured stones resembling the scales of a crocodile. rose gold is set with rubies, white gold with tsavorite garnets, and yellow gold with black spinels. Diamonds complement the coloured stones.
The next set muses the crocodile, and there are three, all crafted in white gold. Precious and semi-precious gemstones such as sapphires, emeralds, tourmalines, diamonds, and mother of pearl accentuate the details of the animal motif. One model comes with a bracelet and the other with alligator and additional calfskin leather straps. There’s a fourth watch with a similar design, but with a panther motif, and is also studded with gems like garnets, onyx, yellow and white diamonds, and emeralds, and complemented by enamel.
The last set in animal jewellery watches is a duo of sculptural timepieces with a panther, tiger, and a crocodile that clamp their jaws on the dial. The panther watch comes in a white gold set with diamonds and sapphires, emerald eyes, and an onyx nose. The crocodile comes in white gold with emeralds and diamonds, a silvered sunray-brushed dial, and an emerald hour marker. The tiger is crafted in yellow gold and studded with black spinels, spessartite garnets, yellow and orange sapphires, and diamonds, with emerald eyes, a black lacquer nose, golden sunray-brushed dial with a diamond hour marker.
Reflection de Cartier Collection
The brand has presented an open-worked bracelet watch crafted in reflective white and yellow gold, with 5 versions. There’s a yellow and rose gold one, the third is white gold with pave set diamonds, and the other two in white gold paved with coloured gemstones like tiger’s eye, opal, amethysts, emeralds, tourmalines, and many more, along with lacquered elements. The dial, on one end of the open bracelet is topped with a bevelled glass, and meets its reflection on the other of the bracelet where time appears to be moving backwards.
Santos de Cartier Dual and Santos Dumont-Rewind Collections
Paying tribute to its aviation history, the brand has unveiled new Santos models, the Santos de Cartier Dual and Santos Dumont-Rewind, where the former is a dual time zone watch.
The Santos de Cartier Dual is crafted in steel and retains the tapered aesthetics of the collection between the case and the bracelet. The second time zone is read in the grey counter positioned at 6 o’clock. The sword-shaped hands are rhodium-finished and located with luminescence. At 3 o’clock you can see the date window and the seven-sided faceted crown. The bracelet is designed with the tool-free SmartLink size system for easy link adjustment and the QuickSwitch system for swapping it with a leather strap.
The platinum Santos-Dumont Rewind watch is inspired by the 1904 model and features a carnelian (a red-coloured semi-precious stone) dial with apple-shaped hands and Roman numerals. The watch is powered by calibre 320 MC, a mechanical movement with reversed manual winding, and is a limited edition of 200.
Continuing the Santos legacy are three new exclusive models as well, these colourful watches come in olive green and platinum, blue peacock and rose gold, and taupe grey and yellow gold. The dial, bezel, and case are illuminated by smoothed and hand-polished translucent lacquer. The dial features hour and minute hands, Arabic numerals, and a railway track at the periphery. The square-shaped dial is further enhanced by the screws on the bezel. Calibre 430 MC powers the timepieces. Here the olive green model is a limited edition of 200.
Additionally, there are three more Santos de Cartier - one in yellow gold and steel case with anthracite grey sunray-brushed dial with a date window at 6 o’clock; the other two in steel case with graduated brown sunray-brushed dial, one with date window and one without.
Images: Courtesy Brand
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