Hublot timepieces are instantly recognisable thanks to their distinct design, but what drives them is oftentimes also a standout creation. I am referring to the Unico movement, a mechanical flyback chronograph, first manufactured by the brand in 2010. Hublot’s very first in-house mechanical movement, it quickly became the brand’s strength, and over time has featured extensively in its timepieces.
The story of the Unico movement begins with the Calibre 1242, the very first iteration to be developed. The brand wanted to create a movement that highlighted its exclusivity and ethos. More than four years in making, Unico was also developed as more than just a ‘workhorse’ movement. Featuring an open design and a 60-minute flyback function, Unico’s highlight was that it had an escapement module that could be removed, adjusted, or replaced without having to disassemble other parts of the movement, as a result functionalities like GMT and perpetual calendar have been added to it in different models. Furthermore, the escapement featured a silicon escape wheel and pallet fork that worked with optimal lubrication (silicon needs much less energy for the movement to work), it had bi-directional winding, a 72-hour power reserve (more common is a 48-hour power reserve), column-wheel-controlled chronograph (perfectly visible on the dial), and date display. It comprised a total of 330 components and 30 jewels. It was showcased in the brand’s Big Bang Unico 45mm models.
After being equipped inside several Big Bang models, the Calibre 1242 was re-invented, and launched as the Unico Calibre 1280, in 2018. Though it was developed on the same base, the motive behind the redevelopment was to achieve a simple design with more accuracy, and most important was to make the movement fit in a reduced size of 42mm, a more gender-fluid case. The reduction also led to a slimmer movement, which went from 8.05mm to 6.75mm, and currently measures 30mm x 30mm x 6.75mm, beating at 4Hz.
Additionally, five more patents were given to the movement. These were for gentler winding – a configuration with a pair of wheels with a tooth profile allowed the winding stem to turn in one direction only and needed less maintenance and had more operational efficiency – and a faultless chronograph display, equipped with a simple clutch mechanism that eliminated the jump of the chronograph as it started and the quivering of chronograph hand. Then there was a patent for a chronograph with enhanced performance, built in such a way so as to ensure more stability and better controlled friction, and another for greater accuracy, which focused on a new fine-tuning system which precisely extended and reduced the length of the balance-spring. The last patent was for exceptional shock resistance. The re-invented calibre was added with 24 more components and 13 more jewels to make a total of 354 components and 43 jewels.
“Our aim is to reinvent watchmaking complications,” says Ricardo Guadalupe, CEO, Hublot. “On the Unico, having the chronograph mechanism on the dial side is a specific design feature enabling the column wheel to be visible. The movement – the soul of the watch – is an integral part of the design and the perceived value of high quality. It is unique.”
Currently, this second-generation Unico Manufacture calibre has been used in the brand’s latest releases from the Watches & Wonders 2024 that include the Big Bang Unico Orange Ceramic, Big Bang Unico Dark Green Ceramic, Big Bang Unico Pink Sapphire, and Square Bang Magic Gold Unico and Ceramic Magic Gold models.
A ceramic duo: The Big Bang Unico Orange Ceramic and Big Bang Unico Dark Green Ceramic
The Big Bang Unico Orange Ceramic (Ref. 441.CU.5910.RX), a new colour debuting in the series and a Big Bang Unico Dark Green Ceramic (441.GX.5210.RX) are a limited edition of 250 pieces. The novelties feature 42mm polished orange or dark green ceramic cases with chronograph pushers at 2 and 4 o’clock, and a crown at 3 o’clock. The Unico openworked dial is on full display, with minute markers on the flange, Super-LumiNova applied Arabic and baton-style hour markers and hands, small seconds at 9 and 60-minute chronograph subdial at 3 o’clock, inside which rests the date window. The skeletonise dial reveals the date ring beneath the translucent chapter ring.
Aesthetically, the dial looks distinctive, thanks to the skeletonisation, and watch geeks will particularly enjoy the column wheel just above 6 o’clock. The open caseback, also shows the movement along with its black-plated openworked tungsten rotor.
The watches are finished with black and matching rubber straps with embossed stripe pattern and titanium deployant clasp with the brand’s patented one-click interchangeable system.
Prices: 24,85,000 (approx.)
Against the current: Big Bang Unico Pink Sapphire
Appearing in a case that is a perfectly translucent light pink, the Big Bang Unico Pink Sapphire (Ref. 441.JP.4890.RT) is a limited edition of 100 pieces. The timepiece entails a 42mm polished pink sapphire crystal case with an openworked dial featuring minute markings, hands, and Arabic hour markers in the matching hue. Finishing it is a pink transparent lined rubber strap.
Price: 1,01,61,000 (approx.)
Be Square: A Square Bang duo in Magic Gold
Hublot introduced two new 42mm Square Bang Unico models – Magic Gold (Ref.821.MX.0130.RX), a 200-piece limited edition, and Ceramic Magic Gold (Ref. 821.CM.0130.RX) at Watches and Wonders, Geneva, 2024. Both novelties featured scratch-resistant Magic Gold, developed and patented by Hublot – it is the only scratch-resistant 18K gold alloy, verified by the Central Office for Precious Metals Control. The ceramic model features a micro-blasted and polished black ceramic case with 18K Magic Gold bezel.
The 42mm watches have rectangular chronograph pushers, and like the aforementioned timepieces, boast a skeletonised dial revealing small seconds at 9 o’clock, a 60-minute chrono counter at 3 o’clock, and a calendar ring beneath them. However, the watches eschew Arabic markers and the minute markers at the flange for indexes and hands in Magic Gold. Both the models are fitted with black structured rubber straps.
Price: Rs 40,68,000 (approx.) for Magic Gold and Rs 30,78,000 (approx.) for Ceramic Magic Gold model
Images: Courtesy Hublot
