The new Bulgari x MB&F is here, this time around Serpenti-inspired

MB&F had been teasing a collaboration with Bulgari for a couple of days now, and the brand has finally revealed their new collaborative watch. The Bulgari X MB&F Serpenti blends one of the former’s most iconic creations with the latter’s horological avantgarde-ness.

Three models of the Bulgari X MB&F Serpenti have been launched, each limited to only 33 pieces. The first version features a titanium case with blue hour and minute domes, while the second is set in an 18K rose gold case, highlighted by green hour and minute domes; the third version is crafted from black PVD-coated stainless steel, with striking red hour and minute domes. All three models are paired with matching hand-stitched rubber straps with a Velcro system and an ardillon buckle made of the same material as the case.

The Bulgari X MB&F Serpenti is the second timepiece for which the two manufactures have joined forces. In 2021, they had unveiled the MB&F X Bulgari Legacy Machine FlyingT Allegra at Dubai Watch Week - that was a high-jewelry version of the ladies’ Legacy Machine FlyingT with the eponymous flying tourbillon taking centre stage.The watch was developed by Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, director of watchmaking creation at Bulgari, and Maximilian Büsser, founder and creative director of MB&F.

Also Read: The new Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC is now the thinnest watch in the world

For their second collaboration, the two masterminds chose to reinterpret one of Bvlgari’s most famous timepieces, the Serpenti, born in 1948, in MB&F’s cutting-edge approach to high horology. This bold endeavour required a complete redevelopment of this historical piece, not only in terms of mechanical engineering and movement conception but also the case design and manufacturing.

Contrary to a classic round case, which offers only a few dimensions to experiment with, the case of the Bulgari x MB&F Serpenti is highly complex, with different shapes and materials from all sides and angles. Naturally, the snake’s features also needed to be taken into account. The time-consuming design process was in fact similar to that of a car.

Once perfected aesthetically, the curved design then needed to be engineered and manufactured – and this generated a number of further challenges. The complex curves extend beyond the metal of the case to the five sapphire crystals, including the snake’s eyes and the multi-faceted rear section, treated with anti-reflective coating on both sides and providing large openings on the movement.

This combination of curved metals and sapphire crystals is not only extremely difficult to machine and finish, but also highly challenging to make water-resistant to 30 meters.

“At MB&F we specialize in ‘kinetic sculptures which give time’ so it was definitely our calling. Nevertheless, the biomorphic design of this watch created enormous challenges in terms of the case but also the movement. The intricate case is entirely machined with 5-axis 3d mills and holds the five sapphire crystals which were not only extremely complicated to make but equally challenging to fit due to the curved nature of the case and the desire for a water resistance of 30 meters”, says Maximilian Busser.

Inside the complex case ticks an equally complicated bespoke movement, conceived and developed in-house by MB&F. From the beginning, one of Stigliani’s central ideas was to breathe life into the ‘Serpenti’ by animating its eyes, aka the revolving hour and minute domes. The left one makes a full rotation in 12 hours and the right one in 60 minutes. The paper-thin domes are machined from solid aluminium to make them as light as possible, requiring innovative milling processes. Both are adorned with Superluimova for nighttime readability.

Also Read: At Bulgari, the Serpenti gets a new automatic movement, the Lady Solotempo BVS100

Bulgari X MB&F Serpenti - Titanium

The mechanical reptile’s “brain” is symbolized by the technically challenging, oversized 14mm flying balance wheel with four traditional regulating screws, beating at the traditional rate of 2.5Hz. It is firmly held in place thanks to a three-dimensional balance bridge bearing the two partners’ names. Separate crowns are actuated for winding and time-setting, incorporated in the rear lugs of the Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti.

Bulgari X MB&F Serpenti - Red Gold

Flipping the “machine” over reveals the power reserve indicator, along with some of the other 310 components of the hand-wound and meticulously finished movement. MB&F takes pride in upholding artisanal manufacturing processes, like finishing the components by hand; an approach only possible when crafting a very limited number of watches per year (just under 400 in 2024). The watchmakers at MB&F can only craft and assemble six to eight Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti movements per month; the 99 pieces, 33 pieces each, will require over a year to deliver.

Bulgari X MB&F Serpenti - Stainless Steel Black PVD

“This piece was a pleasure to design, but technically very challenging to produce. The aim was to have a totally different vision. The snake is a magnificent object that appeals to many collectors. I think we succeeded in giving the Bvlgari Serpent a new horizon. It is not just a feminine object linked to the brand’s DNA but, for the first time, a technical object that speaks to the Bulgari aesthetic and showcases MB&F’s expertise. Like all good collaborations, it is a win-win project,” says Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani.

Images: Courtesy MB&F