Grand Seiko, known for its robust Spring Drive and Hi-Beat movements, marks its first ever appearance at Watches and Wonders. To commemorate this development, the Japanese watchmaker presents a series of new watches at the 2022 instalment of the event happening in Geneva, Switzerland. From the skeletonised Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon to the sparkling SBGD209 from the Masterpiece Collection, here are some Grand Seiko novelties from the Watches and Wonders 2022.
Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon SLGT003
First Watches and Wonders appearance has to be memorable, to make it so, Grand Seiko introduces its first mechanical complication watch - the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon. This timepiece brings together a constant-force mechanism and a tourbillon as one unit on a single axis. The watch is named Kodo, the Japanese word for heartbeat - and perhaps you skip one, courtesy its audio and visual brilliance. The openwork design and the sapphire caseback allow you to appreciate the Grand Seiko watchmaking.
Two years ago, Grand Seiko introduced the 'T0 Constant-force Tourbillon' - a concept movement which incorporated this patented mechanism. To make the movement come to life, the manufacture needed a body - a watch. Grand Seiko engineers started working on the assembly and the finishing of the movement and a case. This gave birth to the Caliber 9ST1 - a highly accurate and stable movement that utilises the technical prowess of the constant-force mechanism.
Packing the Caliber 9ST1 manual-winding movement, the Kodo makes 28,800 vibrations per hour (eight beats per second) and achieves a power reserve of around 72 hours. Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon SLGT003 finds its home inside a 43.8mm platinum 950 and titanium case, which has been paired with a calf strap. Limited edition of 20 pieces, the watch is water resistant upto 100 metres.
Grand Seiko Masterpiece Collection Spring Drive 8 Days Jewelry Watch SBGD209
In the year 2020, Grand Seiko introduced a jewellery watch to the Masterpiece Collection for the first time. Two years later, the Japanese watch brand adds another splendid timepiece to the collection - the Grand Seiko Masterpiece Collection Spring Drive 8 Days Jewelry Watch. Sparkling diamonds, black spinels, white gold, and platinum 950 join hands to create a spectacular timepiece of elegant artistry. It is offered in a limited edition of just five and will be presented at selected Grand Seiko Boutiques in May 2022.
As many as 112 diamonds are embedded in the upper surfaces of the case and a further 60 baguette diamonds surround the dial on the bezel. No fewer than 94 diamonds are set in the dial, contrasting with the 26 black spinels to render an intricate effect. The seconds hand is tempered to a grey colour to match the overall tone and a single brilliant-cut diamond is set into the crown. The diamonds on the bezel have been set by hand, augmenting the artistry of the craftspeople at Grand Seiko.
The eight-day power reserve indicator is visible through the sapphire crystal caseback of the white timepiece. The watch is powered by the Spring Drive 8 Days Caliber 9R01, which was created by the Micro Artist Studio - the expert team of watchmakers who create all the Spring Drive watches in the Masterpiece Collection. The 44.5mm case houses the Caliber 9R01 manual-winding movement and has been paired with a crocodile strap with three-fold clasp with push button release.
Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Collection
The Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Collection evolves with the addition of five new Spring Drive sport watches. Two feature a GMT calibre, two are GMT chronographs, and the fifth is a 200m diver's watch. These watches feature wider lugs and a bracelet that has a low centre of gravity to ensure that the watches sit comfortably on the wrist. The bolder hands offer enhanced legibility and the numerals on the bezel have a new font, developed especially for the Evolution 9 Collection.
The cases and bracelets are made of high-intensity titanium and the hands and indexes are coated with Lumibrite to further improve the legibility of the time in dark conditions. The first of the two chronographs -- Grand Seiko Chronograph 15th Anniversary Limited Edition SBGC249 -- features a blue dial. A limited edition of 700, the 12-hour chronograph also features a rotating bezel and a GMT hand that displays a third time zone. The second chronograph SBGC251 features a black dial.
Third in the lineup is a 200m diver's watch. Powered by the Spring Drive Caliber 9RA5 movement, the watch achieves a power reserve of around five days. Its inner section of the rotating bezel is in ceramic, which protects the watch from being scratched.
The Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Collection has two other pieces that are driven by the Spring Drive GMT 9R66 automatic movement - the SBGE283 with a black dial and SBGE285 with a white dial. Their movement delivers a power reserve of around 72 hours and finds its home inside a high-intensity titanium case, which is water resistant upto 100 metres. Both these models have been paired with the same high-intensity titanium and also feature a see-through screw caseback.