The first watch whose launch marked the establishing of brand Daniel Roth in 1989 was the Tourbillon C187. A year later Roth unveiled a slim dress watch in gold, an idea that the watchmaker had wanted to work on for a while – thin dress watches were Daniel Roth's favourite. Cut to present day, brand Daniel Roth under la Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton is being revived with modern versions of these emblematic watches from the brand. Last year at Geneva Watch Days, the brand unveiled the Tourbillon Rose Gold, inspired by the Tourbillon C187. Now, for LVMH Watch Week 2025, the slim gold dress watch from 1990, the Extra Plat, has been revived with modern updates, in the Extra Plat Souscription.
The Extra Plat Souscription is a time-only, two-hand dress watch that features all the signature design cues of the brand. This includes the double ellipse 18K yellow gold case, and an 18K yellow gold dial decorated with hand-made Clou de Paris guilloche. Much like the original model, the case measures 35.5mm x 38.6 mm, although the watch, at 7.70mm is thinner than the Tourbillon Souscription. This is thanks to the new ultra-thin DR002 movement inside that has a thickness of 3.1mm. All the typography on the dial – Roman numerals and the serial number – is printed in deep blue, a hue which is mirrored on the hands.
The watch also stays true to traditional watchmaking techniques. The lugs are produced as a separate component, and then soldered to the case by hand, and the guilloche on the dial base is engine-turned on a hand-operated straight-line engine dating to circa 1935, created by a single artisan at La Fabrique du Temps’s own guilloche workshop.
Modern updates are visible in the design of the lugs, which have been gently rounded and arched downwards for superior ergonomics, though more emphatic is the new DR002 movement, which has been developed especially for the watch. This is the second movement developed by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton for Daniel Roth, and mimics the visual style of the tourbillon movement that came before it. The DR002 has a 4Hz frequency and a power reserve of 65 hours, and boasts a form that is the same double ellipse shape as the case. The movement is however hidden behind a gold caseback.
The watch is a limited edition of 10 pieces.
Images: Courtesy brands
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