Audemars Piguet marks 150 years of its horological excellence, by not just honouring its legacy, but by boldly shaping its future. The new Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ Extra-Thin Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph (RD#5) ‘150th Anniversary’ (Ref. 26545XT.OO.1240XT.01) isn't merely an anniversary timepiece; it's a daring reimagining of the modern chronograph, pushing boundaries in technical innovation, tactile experience, and aesthetic expression.
A premiere in the “Jumbo” line
Since Gérald Genta's design in 1972, the Royal Oak "Jumbo" has been considered an icon. 39 millimeters in diameter, oversized at the time – a watch that has mastered the art of playing with proportions from the very beginning. That Audemars Piguet is now integrating a flyback chronograph and a flying tourbillon into this very case for the first time sounds almost paradoxical. Yet it has achieved precisely this balancing act – without compromising the silhouette. Quite the opposite: a reimagined haptic experience.
The Caliber 8100 – a new heart
Inside is the brand-new Caliber 8100 , which, after five years of development, breaks several dogmas of chronograph construction. Instead of a hammer and a centerpiece, a patented gear segment and pinion system takes care of zeroing. By storing the energy in the locking cone, the gear train remains continuously tensioned, effectively preventing the chronograph hand from vibrating. At the same time, there is no longer any need for a friction spring, as is common in modern chronographs – a component that acts as a constant brake during operation and when reset. Energy that would otherwise be lost is stored – the chronograph hand shoots back to zero in less than 0.15 seconds. By using titanium components, including the hand and chronograph wheel, the reset is instantaneous and requires minimal energy. A jumping minute counter, a vertical clutch system, and a peripheral platinum oscillating weight complete the picture. The result: a precise, efficient chronograph whose mechanics appear as smart as its feel.
Ergonomics as a guiding principle
The real revolution may not lie in the movement itself, but in the feel on the wrist. Audemars Piguet has rethought the operation of the pushers – inspired by smartphone buttons. Instead of 1.5 kilograms of force and 1 millimeter of travel, around 300 grams with a travel of 0.3 millimeters are now sufficient. This subtle, almost digital feedback is unprecedented in watchmaking and truly impressive in the hand. Added to this is a function selector in the crown that discreetly switches between winding and time setting.
Materials with a future
The anniversary model of the Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ is limited to 150 pieces and combines titanium with Bulk Metallic Glass (BMG) – an amorphous palladium alloy that combines enormous strength with an unusually brilliant luster. First introduced as an experiment in 2021, the material is featured here in series production on the bezel, pushers, and lugs. The classic "Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50" tapisserie dial features an anniversary signature and two guilloché subdials positioned perfectly symmetrically at three and nine o'clock.
Between past and future
The RD#5 is anything but a nostalgic birthday piece. It's a statement: If it's a chronograph, then this is it – ergonomic, technically bold, aesthetically clear. It's no coincidence that Audemars Piguet has placed this watch in perhaps the brand's most sacred case, the "Jumbo." It's a commitment to tradition, but above all, an invitation to take a close look at the future of watchmaking. It will be exciting to see whether its technical innovations will one day find their way into more everyday models.
This article first published in WatchTime.net
Images: Courtesy Audemars Piguet
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