Breguet is here with its 5th chapter of its 250th anniversary celebration with another timepiece: Marine Hora Mundi 5555, a limited edition of 50 worldtime watches, offered for the first time in Breguet Gold. The highlight of this watch is a special dial composed of two superimposed levels, one in gold and featuring guilloché and the other sapphire, inspired by NASA’s ‘Black Marble’, a nocturnal vision of the Earth.
The guilloché lines on the bottom level,with a gradation from sky blue to navy blue, features meridians and parallels, overall making the flat dial appear curved. It is topped with a translucent sapphire crystal giving the illusion of a viewpoint taken from space, as if the collector were observing the Earth from the thermosphere, showcasing a blend of hand-painted in grand feu enamel miniature composition of clouds and sea.
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The sapphire dial is brought to life through a meticulous three-step process on both sides of the crystal. First, the continents are painted in miniature enamel on the reverse side, their contours are defined near the flange using transparent petit feu enamel applied by pad printing. After which artisans enamel within these borders. The enamel is then fired at exceptionally high temperatures, fixing the detail in place.
Next, the dial is turned over, and artisans paint a layer of clouds across the front surface. These clouds, crafted in enamel and fired over a grand feu, bring depth and movement to the composition. Unlike the fixed contours of the continents, each painter allows personal liberty while painting the clouds, making every watch one of a kind. Then city dots in phosphorescent enamel that emit blue emission in the dark are painted on top, finishing the dial.
The handmade dial is encased in a 43.9 mm Breguet gold dial with a fluted case middle. There are blued gold Roman numerals on top of the sapphire dial, and Breguet gold hour markers on the flange. Breguet apple-shaped hour and minute hands mark time. All hands and markers are filled with light grey SLN emitting blue colour in dark. There is also a Breguet gold seconds hand. The day/night indicator at 4 o’clock in Breguet Gold represents sun with a sunburst finish disc, and a half-moon disc in a hand-hammered rhodium-plated finish. An anchor motif is placed at 6 o’clock in Breguet gold.
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There is a date window at 12 o’clock and the second timezone displayed in an aperture at 6 o’clock. Along with the home time and date, this watch also offers a second time and date for the time zone of the owner’s choice with an instantaneous display based on the principle of a mechanical memory, a feat. unique to the brand. One can set the time and date of the home city with the crown at 3 o’clock, and similarly for the second city via a push-button at 8 o’clock.
The mechanism of this timepiece will calculate the time and date by means of a system of cams, hammers and an integrated differential and memorise it. Then, the user can switch the time-zone between the home and second city on demand. Owners have the option to personalise the cities assigned to the 24 time zones.
Powering the watch is a 77F1 calibre, the movement that has powered the Hora Mundi collection since its launch, offering a power reserve of 55 hours. The caseback features a double edged special 250th anniversary guilloché, known as Quai de l’Horloge. It also mentions the anniversary logo like the other models in the 250th anniversary collection. For the first time the oscillating weight is crafted in Breguet gold and is inspired by a boat helm, visible through a sapphire caseback.
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The movement of this model is protected by several patents: One for the timepiece’s dual time-zone mechanism; second for the display of the second time zone on demand; third for the the programmable and reprogrammable mechanical memory wheel; and lastly for the watch displaying a time dimension via a trailing hand.
It comes dressed in a navy blue alligator leather strap fastened with a Breguet gold 3-blade folding clasp. There is also an extra rubber strap included.
Images: Courtesy Brand
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