This year marked the second successful appearance of Bvlgari at Watches and Wonders and its presence was marked by the release of watches that engaged with the brand’s most popular lines. While the highlight was the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon Platinum—the thinnest ever platinum tourbillon watch—there were also the Aeterna and the Tubogas with new gemsetting. Within the Octo Finissimo line, the brand introduced the latest variant in a compact 37 mm case deserves, a functional upgrade that increases its appeal multi-fold. With this subtle yet significant downsizing from 40mm, the brand has made the watch more versatile and wearable, while retaining the architectural elegance and sophistication of the iconic Octo Finissimo collection.
First released in 2014, Bvlgari’s Octo Finissimo is known for its Roman design featuring geometric curves and angles, which is blended with Swiss craftsmanship. Its time-only variations have always been 40 mm, and bring with them a bold, contemporary sports-watch appeal. Sculptural, stepped and bevelled, the Octo Finissimo rose to quickly become one of modern watchmaking’s most recognisable silhouettes, and further gained popularity through its pursuit of extreme thinness. More than a decade later, it remains high on Bvlgari watches’s totem pole.
This year, the maison reinterprets that same icon in a new dimension—37 mm—reflecting the same sophistication and visual identity as the original. What’s different is how the new size makes it more gender neutral, gives it more balanced, and raises it beyond the genre of integrated sport watches. Featured on our digital cover, the titanium Ref. 104089’s refined proportions now serve the purpose of a daily lifestyle watch – while titanium has always had a light presence, the smaller size offers a feel that is more intimate on the wrist.
“The Octo Finissimo 37 is, for us, a reimagined blank canvas. By reducing its diameter, we have created a space where creativity expresses itself in its purest forms. It’s the expression of continuous innovation where every detail is an opportunity to reimagine watchmaking,” stated Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Bvlgari’s Product Creation Executive Director, in the press note.
While technically the reduction is just 3 mm, its practical transition is far more complex—usually, when a brand reduces the size of a watch it is more challenging to make it compared to a size that’s larger. In the case of the Octo Finissimo 37, the brand not only has to reduce the size but also still keep the watch very thin.
With this specific objective, the brand took about three years to perfect the downsizing, making sure to not compromise in any way with the new reinterpretation. First, the brand developed an entirely new movement from scratch—the self-winding ultra-thin movement Calibre BVF 100, made on the developments of its pre-existing ultra-miniature Piccolissimo and Solotempo ladies’ movements. What is more interesting is that the new movement (31 mm) is slightly thicker (0.12 mm) but still manages to be 20 per cent lesser in volume. This is thanks to the compact micro-rotor (2.35 mm in height), which saves much space while still storing plenty of power. The new movement boasts a 3Hz frequency and a power reserve of about 72 hours, the same autonomy as the previous movements. Keeping in mind the same attention to detail, the calibre is also decorated with finishing like perlage and Côtes de Genève on the bridges and mainplate, visible though the sapphire crystal caseback.
Secondly, while a smaller size, it retains the same aesthetics and design codes—one of the most distinctive cases in modern watchmaking combines multiple geometric forms into a single architectural structure. It looks like an octagonal case at a glance, but a closer look reveals an octagonal inner bezel topped with a round one, creating an effect of depth and sharpness. Moreover, there are angular lugs, a stepped case, and a new refined faceted bracelet, which makes the watch look like a single geometric object, while making it more ergonomic. The bracelet now comes with a new push button clasp.
Encased in sandblasted titanium, the watch is just around 65 grams. There’s a sandblasted titanium screw-down crown with black ceramic insert. Being a time-only watch, it features a minimal opaline titanium dial displaying black Arabic numerals at 12 and 6, hour markers, and hands, and a small seconds dial in between 7 and 8 o’clock. The dial layout is the same as the 40 mm versions.
Apart from our digital cover watch, the brand has released three more Octo Finissimo variants - one in satin-polished yellow gold (Ref. 104120), featuring a monochrome look with yellow gold dial and bracelet; the other is in the satin-polished titanium (Ref. 104351) with an opaline titanium dial and rhodium plated hands and hour markers for a monochrome look; and the third one is the 37 mm minute repeater (Ref. 104250) crafted in sandblasted titanium.
The size reduction to 37 mm demonstrates the brand’s capability to transform one of its most iconic timepieces in keeping with the size shift currently shaping the luxury watch industry. Collectors today are gravitating towards smaller and compact cases because of their versatility and comfort. This is a sweet spot size for modern luxury watchmaking as it is equally appealing across genders and adaptable across styles. And while the Octo Finissimo has always been defined by its radical thinness, the 37 mm edition highlights the maturity it can achieve.
Price: Rs. 16,40,000 for Ref. 104089
Also Read:
Watches and Wonders 2026: Bvlgari opens a new chapter with 37 mm Octo Finissimo models
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LVMH Watch Week 2026: Bvlgari reinterprets its iconic Monete,Tubogas, Serpenti, and Lvcea collections
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Geneva Watch Days 2025: Bvlgari is expanding its Octo Finissimo and Aluminium line with two new models each
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Bvlgari launches four limited-edition timepieces in exclusive marble dials
