This year, the storied Genevan manufacture presents fifteen new models that span from groundbreaking complications to refined everyday timepieces, all bearing the unmistakable stamp of Patek Philippe's commitment to excellence.
Technical Mastery: New Movements Power Exceptional Timepieces
3 new movements take center stage this year, equipping some of the most impressive pieces in the collection.
Making its debut in the regular collection is the Reference 5308G-001, a true horological masterpiece that first appeared as a limited platinum edition at the 2023 Tokyo Grand Exhibition. This self-winding Quadruple Complication unites a minute repeater, a split-seconds chronograph, and an instantaneous perpetual calendar with aperture displays.
The heart of this exceptional watch is the new caliber R CHR 27 PS QI movement, a testament to Patek Philippe's expertise in miniaturization and energy management. This movement is notable for its optimized performance and two patented innovations concerning the split-seconds mechanism. The challenge for Patek Philippe’s engineers was to integrate the energy-intensive split-seconds mechanism between the base movement (with the minute repeater) and the perpetual calendar module, all while maintaining a compact size.
The caliber R CHR 27 PS QI, with its 799 parts, achieves this with only a slight increase in thickness (12.28 mm compared to 10.35 mm) compared to its predecessor. Innovations include a new patented system to eliminate friction of the chronograph wheel and a new patented mechanism for isolating the split-seconds hand, both designed to reduce energy consumption and enhance the watch's efficiency. The anti-backlash clutch wheel and the isolator mechanism are pivotal in achieving this.
The watch features a mono-pusher chronograph with a column wheel and horizontal clutch, with 60-minute and 12-hour counters at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock respectively. The minute repeater, actuated by a slide-piece in the caseband at 9 o'clock, chimes with the renowned Patek Philippe sound quality.
The instantaneous perpetual calendar, with day, date, month, leap year, and day/night indications in apertures, benefits from the same exclusive mechanism (with two patents) found in Reference 5207 and 5208.
The Ice-blue sunburst dial ensures legibility, featuring faceted applied hour markers and dauphine-style hands, all in white gold with blue metallization. The 42mm white-gold case, hand-polished with a concave bezel and skeletonized lugs, is presented with two interchangeable case backs: one in sapphire crystal and the other in white gold. A shiny navy-blue alligator leather strap with a new patented triple-blade fold-over clasp in white gold completes this exceptional timepiece
In a significant nod to its rich heritage, Patek Philippe presents Reference 27000M-001, a desk clock offering both a perpetual calendar and a weekly calendar. Inspired by historic pieces from the 1920s, particularly the 1923 clock created for James Ward Packard, this timepiece features a completely new manually wound caliber with remarkable specifications.
The movement, caliber 86-135 PEND S IRM Q SE, offers an extraordinary 31-day power reserve ensured by three going barrels connected in series. It maintains exceptional rate accuracy of +/– 1 second per 24 hours thanks to a patented constant-force mechanism that maintains stable balance amplitude throughout the power reserve period.
Comprising 912 parts (almost half dedicated to the perpetual calendar), the movement incorporates nine patent-pending innovations aimed at enhancing reliability, reducing energy consumption, and improving ease of use.
The clock's exterior is equally impressive, with a 925 silver cabinet adorned with panels of green Grand Feu flinqué enamel over a swirling guilloché pattern. Decorative elements in vermeil (silver gilt) include three rosettes, acanthus scrollwork surrounding the Calatrava cross, and four winged lions that serve as the clock's feet.
A modern innovation comes in the form of a mechanical dashboard in American walnut wood veneer, housed beneath a hinged bonnet. This control console makes adjustments intuitive and practical, with five push-piece correctors below the dial for adjusting the calendar functions.
Prior to entering the current collection, a unique preview version was donated to the Only Watch charitable auction in 2021, where it fetched 9.5 million Swiss francs.
The third new movement appears in the Calatrava 8 Days Reference 5328G-001, representing five years of development work. This elegant white gold timepiece features instantaneous displays of the day (by an aperture) and the date (by a hand) at 6 o'clock, with an eight-day power reserve indicated at 12 o'clock.
The manually wound caliber 31-505 8J PS IRM CI J takes inspiration from the rectangular movement introduced in 2013 for the Gondolo 8 Days, but now features a round shape specifically designed for the Calatrava case. It incorporates an exclusive Pulsomax® escapement with components made of Silinvar®, a silicon derivative with exceptional properties including lightness, hardness, and resistance to magnetism. This is only the fourth model in Patek's current collection to feature this advanced escapement.
The impressive 8-day power reserve is achieved through two series-coupled barrels that function on the principle of communicating vessels. When wound, both barrels charge simultaneously, and as the main barrel discharges, the auxiliary barrel transmits its energy to it, effectively recharging it.
The watch features an innovative instantaneous day and date jump mechanism, utilizing a patented system first introduced in the Cubitus Instantaneous Grand Date from October 2024. At midnight, both indications jump simultaneously and instantaneously, powered by energy accumulated throughout the day.
The white gold case features a caseband decorated with the iconic Clous de Paris (hobnail) guilloché pattern, with an unusual construction where lugs attach to the back, allowing the decoration to wrap elegantly around the entire caseband. The textured blue dial with a black gradient rim arranges its displays along a vertical axis for exceptional legibility, complemented by syringe-style applied numerals and hands with luminescent coating.
The watch comes with two interchangeable straps (blue calfskin with textile pattern and taupe grained calfskin) and a new patented triple-blade fold-over clasp for improved comfort and easy strap changes without tools.
Grand Complications: A Display of Horological Excellence
The perpetual calendar with retrograde date hand, one of Patek Philippe's most sought-after complications, receives a modern interpretation in Reference 6159G-001. This white gold piece features a sapphire crystal dial with gray metallization that offers a glimpse of the mechanical heart, while the bezel is adorned with the iconic Clous de Paris guilloché pattern. The caliber 26-330 S QR self-winding movement powers this sophisticated timepiece.
The split-seconds chronograph Reference 5370 debuts in rose gold for the first time, perfectly complementing its brown Grand Feu enamel dial with subsidiary dials and a tachymeter scale in beige champlevé enamel. The caliber CHR 29-535 PS manually wound movement combines traditional architecture with seven patented innovations. Rose gold applied Breguet numerals and rose gold leaf-shaped hands with beige luminescent coating enhance legibility. A shiny dark chestnut brown alligator leather strap with the new patented three-prong fold-over clasp enhances the watch's elegant appearance.
In a significant development for feminine collectors, the Twenty~4 collection welcomes its first complication. The new Twenty~4 Perpetual Calendar comes in two rose gold versions: Reference 7340/1R-001 with a silvered "shantung" finish dial, and Reference 7340/1R-010 with an olive-green sunburst dial.
The ultra-thin caliber 240 Q self-winding movement allows for an elegantly slim case, and notably, these are the first round Twenty~4 models without gem settings.
Also Read: Twenty~4 Times Three
Complications for Daily Life: Practical Elegance
The Annual Calendar invented and patented by Patek Philippe in 1996, appears in a new rose gold model with a 38mm diameter. The Reference 4946R-001 features a chestnut-brown dial with a "shantung" finish, paired with a calfskin strap embossed with a "denim" motif. The caliber 26-330 S QA LU self-winding movement displays the day, date, and month, requiring only one manual correction per year.
For travelers, the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Reference 5524G-010 in white gold receives a vintage makeover with an ivory lacquer dial and a khaki green composite strap. The caliber 26-330 S C FUS self-winding movement offers an intuitive dual time zone system, with date display synchronized to local time and patented screw-down pushers for safety.
Timeless Elegance: Pure Patek Philippe Style
The quintessence of timeless elegance appears in the Calatrava Reference 6196P-001, a platinum timepiece with a rose-gilt opaline dial. Its polished case with satin-brushed flanks, smooth beveled bezel, and slender tapering lugs create a harmonious design that pairs perfectly with a shiny chocolate alligator leather strap. The caliber 30-255 PS manually wound movement offers a 65-hour power reserve and a "stop-seconds" function.
The innovative Cubitus collection, launched in October 2024, introduces a new medium size of 40mm in two versions: Reference 7128/1G-001 in white gold with a blue-gray sunburst dial, and Reference 7128/1R-001 in rose gold with a brown sunburst dial.
The bold, unique geometry of the square case with rounded corners is emphasized by alternating vertical satin-brushed and polished finishes. Both models feature gold bracelets with lockable adjustment systems and patented fold-over clasps.
Ladies' Collections and Haute Joaillerie
Patek Philippe introduces two white gold Ladies' Nautilus models with 32mm cases and quartz movements. Both Reference 7010G-013 and Reference 7010/1G-013 feature azure blue lacquered dials with the collection's signature wave pattern and bezels set with 46 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.8 ct).
The former comes with a matching blue composite strap, while the latter features a white gold bracelet.
The pinnacle of jewelry craftsmanship appears in the Nautilus Haute Joaillerie Reference 5811/1460G-001. This spectacular creation plays artistically on the shapes of precious stones to emphasize the iconic Nautilus design. The bezel's rounded octagon is highlighted by baguette-cut diamonds, while brilliant-cut diamonds adorn the dial. In total, this masterpiece features 1,285 brilliant-cut diamonds (6.43 ct) and 195 baguette-cut diamonds (13.27 ct), all powered by the caliber 26-330 S self-winding movement.
Celebrating Artisanal Excellence
Complementing these new models, Patek Philippe unveils a rich collection of 78 unique and limited-edition pieces showcasing the most refined Rare Handcrafts. These include dome table clocks, table clocks, pocket watches, and wristwatches featuring techniques such as miniature painting on enamel, Grand Feu cloisonné enamel, hand engraving, and wood marquetry.
The "Rare Handcrafts 2025" exhibition will be open to the public from April 5 to 26, 2025, in the Patek Philippe Salons in Geneva.
Images courtesy: Patek Philippe
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