Patek Philippe has introduced three new chronographs - Ref. 5905/1A-001 self-winding flyback chronograph with annual calendar, Ref. 5204R-011 split-seconds chronograph and perpetual calendar, and Ref. 5930P-001 self-winding world time flyback chronograph. These three Patek Philippe chronographs with additional complications are the variations of the manufacture's 5905, 5204, and 5930 models, each uniquely testifying to Patek Philippe's expertise in the field of complications.
Patek Philippe's authority over chronograph movements takes us back to 2005 when the manufacture started to entirely design and create these robust engines in-house, presenting one of the world's thinnest split-seconds chronograph movements - the CHR 27-525 PS. The introduction of this calibre marked the start of crafting some of the most elaborate movements.
This was soon followed by the calibre CH 28-520 that was presented in 2006. This second in-house chronograph movement featured an automatic winding, a modern vertical disk-type clutch system, a flyback function, a large single counter at 6 o'clock, and a chronograph seconds hand that could be used as a permanent (running) seconds hand. Its base can be accommodated with additional complications, which now has given birth to the two new models - 5905/1A chronograph/annual calendar and 5930P chronograph/world time.
Three years after the second in-house chronograph was presented, Patek Philippe launched the calibre CH 29-535 PS that combined manual winding, column wheel, and toothed-wheel horizontal clutch system with six patented innovations. The movement's ingenuity is now part of men's model Ref. 5172 and a ladies' model Ref. 7150/250 in Patek Philippe's current collection. In 2011, the CH 28-520 was reimagined to become a grand complication version incorporating a perpetual calendar - the CH 29-535 PS Q. The CH 29-535 PS Q was used to power the Ref. 5270 and Ref. 5271. In the year 2012, the base calibre was again tweaked to become a split-seconds chronograph and perpetual calendar version - the CHR 29-535 PS Q, powering the Ref. 5204.
In 2021, the chronograph and complications master Patek Philippe uses its expertise to offer three new versions of chronographs with additional complications that we explore today.
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Self-winding flyback chronograph with annual calendar Ref. 5905/1A-001
This chronograph with an annual calendar dons a sporty look courtesy its steel case paired with a three-link integrated bracelet and a sunburst green dial. The Ref. 5905/1A-001 is an amalgamation of two complications - a self-winding flyback chronograph and a patented annual calendar. The Ref. 5905 was first launched in 2015 as a platinum model that was followed by a rose gold iteration in 2019. This is for the first time the Ref. 5905 has been crafted in steel to be a solid daily driver.
The green and silver hues of the dial promise superior legibility with a central chronograph hand, a large 60-minute subdial at 6 o'clock, and three day/date/month apertures arranged in an arc that all come together to ensure that the wearer is able to read annual calendar indications quickly. The calibre CH 28-520 QA 24H can be admired in action through the timepiece's transparent sapphire caseback.
The patented annual calendar automatically takes account of 30- and 31-day months, requiring only one correction per year, on March 1. The polished steel case features an elegant construction with a concave bezel and recessed sides. The Ref. 5905/1A-001's bracelet draws inspiration from the bracelet that was offered on Aquanaut Reference 5167/1A. Its contrasting finishes come to life courtesy the polished outer links and satin-finished inner links. The bracelet is equipped with a patented Patek Philippe fold-over clasp secured by four independent catches.
The new Ref. 5905/1A-001 joins the 5905 family that boasts splendid members like 5905P-001 in platinum with a blue dial and 5905R-001 in rose gold with a brown dial.
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Split-seconds chronograph and perpetual calendar Ref. 5204R-011
The Ref. 5204R-011 adds to the glory of Patek Philippe's grand complication pieces. In 2016, the Ref. 5204 quickly became a celebrated timepiece among the watch collectors and enthusiasts when it was made available in two rose gold versions, one with a silvered opaline dial and chocolate brown alligator strap ( 5204R-001), and the other with an opaline ebony black dial and rose gold Goutte (droplet) bracelet (5204/1R).
The 2021 iteration on the rose gold case combines this precious metal with a matching slate grey dial and strap. The rose gold case has been entirely hand-polished and features a concave bezel and two-tier lugs. Its busy sunburst dial nonetheless offers great legibility with the day and month displayed in two in-line apertures at 12 o'clock, the date hand at 6 o'clock incorporating the moonphase aperture, the small seconds and the instantaneous 30-minute counter appearing on two subdials at 9 and 3 o'clock, and two small round apertures displaying the leap-year cycle between 4 and 5 o'clock and the day/night indication between 7 and 8 o'clock - functions enabling accurate adjustment of the calendar.
Reading time, be it the light of the day or the dark of the night, is effortless, thanks to the applied hour markers and Dauphine-type hands in rose gold, all with luminescent coating. Ticking inside the rose gold case of the Ref. 5204R-011 is the calibre CHR 29-535 PS Q that was first introduced in 2012 and powered the Ref. 5204P-001. The movement's manual winding, two column wheels, and the horizontal clutch have been combined with seven patented innovations, including six for the chronograph and one for the split-seconds mechanism.
The new Ref. 5204R-011 is offered on a slate grey calf leather strap with an embossed alligator pattern and a rose gold fold-over clasp.
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Self-winding world time flyback chronograph Ref. 5930P-001
The Ref. 5930P-001 follows in the footsteps of a model Patek Philippe launched in 1940, bringing together a self-winding flyback chronograph and a world time function. The Ref. 5930 was first unveiled in 2016 in a white gold version with a blue dial and a matching strap. The manufacture borrowed some time from the 2016 model to create a sporty and cosmopolitan iteration in platinum with a green dial and strap.
Looking at the dial with a hand-guilloched circular pattern, you will notice that the names of the cities are printed in green on the corresponding disk. The green graces the snailed 30-minute counter up at 6 o'clock while the applied hour markers and the faceted Dauphine-type hands are in white gold, highlighted by a luminescent coating ensuring legibility in all circumstances.
The case has been hand polished entirely and been set with a diamond at 6 o'clock, featuring the 'wing-type' lugs that were a prominent part of the 1940s-1950s world time watches. Driven by the calibre CH 28-520 HU, the 4 o'clock pusher enables instant restarting of a timing operation when the central hand is already performing an operation -- the flyback function -- or is being used as a permanent (running) seconds display. The world time function simultaneously displays the time in 24 time zones. When the wearer changes time zones, Patek Philippe's patented mechanism enables the correction of all displays by pressing the 10 o'clock pusher without affecting the accuracy of the movement.
The new Reference 5930P-001 is worn on a shiny bottle green alligator strap with a platinum fold-over clasp.
Watch | Patek Philippe's watchmaking artistry
Patek Philippe Ref. 5905/1A
Movement: Self-winding mechanical movement CH 28-520 QA 24H, flyback chronograph, central chronograph hand and 60-minute counter, annual calendar, day, date, month and day/night indication displayed in apertures
Dial: Olive green sunburst, gold applied hour markers
Case: Steel, sapphire crystal caseback, water-resistant up to 30 metres, diameter of 42mm, height of 14.13mm
Bracelet: Steel with fold-over clasp
Patek Philippe Ref. 5204R-011
Movement: Manual-winding mechanical movement CHR 29-535 PS Q, split-seconds chronograph, instantaneous 30-minute counter, perpetual calendar, day, month, leap year and day/night indication displayed in apertures, date indicated by hand, moonphases, small seconds
Dial: Slate grey sunburst, gold applied hour markers with luminescent coating, 18K gold dial plate
Case: Rose gold, interchangeable solid and sapphire crystal casebacks, water-resistant up to 30 metres, diameter of 40mm, height of 14.3 mm
Bracelet: Calfskin, embossed alligator pattern, hand-stitched, shiny grey with fold-over clasp
Patek Philippe Ref. 5930P-001
Movement: Self-winding mechanical movement CH 28-520 HU, flyback chronograph, central chronograph hand and 30-minute counter, world time, 24-hour and day/night indication for the 24 time zones
Dial: Green, hand-guilloched, gold applied hour markers with luminescent coating
Case: Platinum, sapphire-crystal caseback, water-resistant up to 30 metres, diameter of 39.5mm, height of 12.86mm
Bracelet: Alligator leather with square scales, hand-stitched, shiny bottle green with fold-over clasp