In the watch world, where heritage forms the narrative and backbone of nearly every timepiece, Cartier’s Santos-Dumont has a special place. The first men's watch designed to be worn on the wrist. Designed specially for Brazilian aviator and style-setter Alberto Santos-Dumont. By his friend, Louis Cartier, grandson of the founder of the House of Cartier. It adorned Alberto’s wrist as he took to the skies, serving expertly not just its purpose as a tool, but also as a stylish timepiece. Its flat, functional design with eight exposed rivets on the bezel, and a leather strap with a pin buckle, drew the attention of people and it was eventually made available to the public in 1911. Over the years, not only has the Santos-Dumont line evolved with different materials and design updates, it has also created the design foundation on which lines and models like the Santos de Cartier, Santos Demoiselle, and Santos Galbée were built, to spread Cartier’s appeal to a wide variety of wrists.
This year has been a notable one for the Santos-Dumont line. Beyond its tool watch roots, Cartier chose to highlight how the collection is also synonymous with style, which echoes the persona of the man who first commissioned it. Let’s not forget that while Alberto Santos-Dumont was an aviation pioneer, he was also a style maven, rarely seen without a crisp, high collar, silk shirts, a Panama hat, and an impeccably tailored suit. He was a prominent fashion icon of the Belle Époque era in Paris. The three new versions of the Santos-Dumont watch channel this dandyism of Alberto Santos-Dumont.
Introduced in yellow gold and platinum, our cover watch is the version with the obsidian dial (Ref. CRWGSA0123). All the models take direct inspiration from the progenitor created for Alberto, and feature Roman numerals, visible screws (which have long replaced the rivets) on the bezel, curved horns, a circular-grained crown, and a blue cabochon in the yellow gold versions, and a red one in the platinum iteration. The square case remains elongated and refined, unmistakably identifiable with its softly rounded angles that is at the heart of the Santos-Dumont. In these new versions, sized 43.5 mm x 31.4 mm (‘large model’ in Cartier parlance), with a thickness (rather slimness) of 7.3 mm, vintage accents collide with contemporary updates, coming together to create a modern classic watch that is no less than a style statement.
"The new Santos-Dumont emphasises its resemblance to the original shape, and the bracelet, at once fluid and precious, is an expression of contemporary elegance," says Pierre Rainero, Director of Image, Style and Heritage
Taking the lead in these new executions is an integrated, interchangeable 15-row bracelet. The interest in bracelets, both integrated and otherwise, has gained massive momentum in the watch world, and Cartier’s new offering is perfectly placed to capitalise on this popularity. Originally being a jewellery maison, one can imagine Cartier’s depths of expertise is creating bracelets, something the brand drew from, going back to the 1920s when its first made-to-measure metal bracelets for watches were created. Taking inspiration from these century-old designs, the new Santos-Dumont watches feature for the first time, a striking mesh bracelet.
As mentioned earlier, the Santos-Dumont watch is the foundation on which several different Cartier watch designs have been built, most in bracelet versions. But the Santos-Dumont has always been worn on a leather strap, perhaps in a bid to preserve the purity of its historic original design. The fact that it is now offered in a bracelet version marks a big evolution.
The bracelet in question has been designed in the most supple way possible, thanks to its 394, 1.15 mm vertical links that wrap across the wrist in the most effortless manner; curve it around the circumference of your index finger, and you’ll have the same result, proof of its sinewy-ness. A direct result is, of course, comfort of wear, and a smooth finish that’s a result of high-quality machining, finishing, and assembly at the Cartier Manufacture. Intensely polished and reflective, it glistens from a distance (and is bound to grab attention) and is fastened with an 18K rose gold triple deployant buckle.
The second distinction our digital cover watch holds is its obsidian dial. This volcanic stone, sourced from Mexico, has unique sheens and iridescence thanks to trace minerals and gas bubbles. Which also means that no two dials are alike. While hard, obsidian is also fragile and brittle, which makes the dial, which is just 0.3 mm, a feat of gem-cutting. Once again a reminder of Cartier’s jewellery roots, the delicate dial has been harnessed by the brand’s craftsmen, cut and polished to reveal stunning radiance. On this dial rest golden-finish Roman numerals and golden-finish steel sword-shaped hands, all topped by a sapphire crystal. The case is 18K yellow gold (750/1000) with a slim case middle featuring brushed finishes and a polished bevel, while the bezel is mirror-polished. The closed caseback is engraved with ‘S D’, Alberto Santos-Dumont’s stylized signature. The watch is hand-wound, powered by the 430 MC with approximately 43 hours of power reserve, and water resistant to 30 metres.
The two other versions that have been introduced – one in yellow gold and the other in platinum – feature the same specifications, albeit both have a silvered satin-finish dial with sunray effect and blued hands.
A pioneering tool watch and a symbol of personal style – these latest Santos-Dumont interpretations continue to evolve both these aspects. And with the introduction of a bracelet that feels natural to the collection, the line enters a new chapter while remaining rooted in its heritage.
Images: Courtesy Cartier
