As rich is Breguet’s heritage in aviation, it is equally in marine. Louis Abraham Breguet was the “Watchmaker to the French Royal Navy”, the title awarded to him in 1815 by Louis XVIII, and a year before he also became a member of the Board of Longitude. He had learnt from his father Joseph-François Marie, who was a mathematician, and celebrated watchmakers such as Ferdinand Berthoud and Jean-Antoine Lépine. It was the training under these personalities that Breguet designed tools for astronomical navigation, to calculate the position of ships in a fleet, and marine chronometers. The Marine collection is a testament to this legacy.
Last year, Montres Breguet unveiled the Marine Tourbillon 5577, an ode to the marine history of the brand featuring the iconic complication created by its founder. The newest in the Marine collection is the Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887. The model was first released in 2017 in platinum or pink gold, and featured the Equation of Time, a 60-second tourbillon, and perpetual calendar complications, all driven by Calibre 581DR. The new timepiece (Ref. 5887PT/92/5WV) has come with all the complications, and is powered by Calibre 581DPE with a power reserve of about 80 hours.
The 43.9mm watch is crafted in platinum. Its dial is made in 18K white gold with black finishing and features an engine-turned hand-guilloché ‘wave’ motif. The hour circle with black Roman numerals is silvered and circular-brushed, and completed by pyramid-shaped 18K white gold hour markers coated with luminescence. The tourbillon cage at 5 o’clock is made with garde 5 titanium and its balance spring is made with silicon, and the small seconds running over it. Furthermore, a blued gauge between 7 and 8.30 o’clock indicates the power reserve of the calibre.
The Equation Marchante or Equation of Time is the difference between the mean solar time or calendar time and true solar time or sidereal time, which deviates at about 16 minutes early to 14 minutes late. The timepiece shows this difference at a glance with the two minute hands, one is the Breguet hand with a Super-LumiNova® tip that glows blue that represents the calendar time, and the other is gold-plated with a fluted ring for the true true solar time.
The perpetual calendar is read by an anchor-shaped retrograde hand that sweeps across an arc-shaped graduated scale from 1 to 31 present at the upper dial part, pointing to the date. The day, month and leap year are read in the apertures at 10.30 and 1.30 made with 18K white gold and with black background for legibility.
The movement is also decorated with the similar wave motif on the oscillating weight brought to life by chiseling. This wave motif is the silhouette of a Royal Navy warship commissioned in 1752, named Royal Louis. The watch comes flanked with a black textured rubber strap completed with triple-blade 950 platinum folding clasp.
Images: Courtesy Brand
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