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Louis Vuitton and De Bethune come together for the special LVDB-03 Louis Varius Project

Louis Vuitton and De Bethune present the LVDB-03 Louis Varius Project, the first mechanical Sympathique watch since 1991 – for over 42 crores
With the LVDB-03 Louis Varius Project, Louis Vuitton and De Bethune unveil the first mechanical Sympathique watch in more than three decades. The project comprises a monumental table clock paired with a wristwatch—just two such sets were created, each priced at over 42 crores. Additionally, ten standalone wristwatches will be offered, each valued at 4 crores. 

When Jean Arnault, Director of Watches at Louis Vuitton, first met Denis Flageollet in 2021, he had no idea what he was getting himself into. Flageollet—co-founder of De Bethune and one of the most discreet legends of contemporary watchmaking—is not one for superficial collaborations. He only works with people whose vision resonates with his own. And that's exactly what happened. What began as a conversation about historical watchmaking evolved into a secret project codenamed "Phase 3." The result: the LVDB-03 Louis Varius Project, consisting of a wristwatch positioned between two signature lines of the brand, as well as a modern interpretation of the legendary Sympathique watch invented by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1795. A mechanical masterpiece that automatically winds and synchronizes a wristwatch while it rests in its table clock case. Sounds like magic? It almost is. 


“Through these collaborations, we give watchmakers the freedom to define their own vision of time and their own vision of Louis Vuitton. We bring an external perspective that allows us to support independent watchmakers, and in return, they bring their own fresh perspective to Louis Vuitton. This dynamic brings a great deal of creativity and new ideas to both sides ,” explains Jean Arnault, describing the project, which follows the Chronographe à Sonnerie LVRR-01 with Rexhep Rexhepi, the founder of Atelier Akrivia, and the LVKV-02 GMR 6, created in collaboration with watchmaker Kari Voutilainen.

What is a Sympathique watch?
The Sympathique (French for "sympathetic" or "compassionate") is one of the most influential inventions in watchmaking history. Breguet developed it so that owners could place their pocket watch inside a table clock overnight, and it would arrive wound and set to the exact second in the morning. Automatically. Mechanically. Without electronics, without batteries. Only five such clocks were made during Breguet's lifetime. His son later refined the concept, but the idea remained a rarity. In the early 1990s, Denis Flageollet—then still with Vincent Halter and François-Paul Journe—created several movements for Breguet that revived the concept. 


A meeting of two worlds 
“When I first heard of Denis Flageollet, I was very perplexed,” says Jean Arnault. “It wasn’t until I visited De Bethune and experienced the extraordinary rigor and imagination behind every decision that I began to understand who he really is: a modern-day Leonardo da Vinci.” Flageollet himself adds: “We talked a lot about watchmaking and found common ground in the pieces we admire. I realized that we speak the same language and share a strong sense of responsibility for the craft and its preservation.” Their conversations drifted to the founding fathers of watchmaking—and eventually to the enigmatic Sympathique. What began as an exchange of ideas evolved into a quiet ambition: to reimagine one of the boldest creations in watchmaking history, but through a contemporary lens. 

The table clock: LVDB-03 Sympathique Louis Varius
This is where things get really crazy. The monumental table clock is not just a statement piece – it's a functional mechanical masterpiece made up of 763 components.

The DB5006 caliber movement, entirely manufactured by De Bethune, is manually wound with a key. Featuring two large mainspring barrels and a power equalizer, the caliber delivers impressive stability and autonomy. With 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz), it offers an eleven-day power reserve .

The functions: hours, minutes, rotating disc animation – and of course the Sympathique function. When the wristwatch is placed in its holder, the system engages via the crown. Over a period of approximately 9 to 12 hours, the table clock automatically winds the wristwatch. Every two hours, a dedicated mechanism resets the wristwatch display to synchronize it with the master clock. An accuracy of +/- 7 minutes is possible. Unlike previous Sympathique clocks, the wristwatch does not require any preparation.

The minute track, inspired by the signature tambour bezel, replaces the traditional "Louis Vuitton" inscription with twelve hour markers. Two triangular hands, emerging from the central "Milky Way" dial, indicate the hours and minutes. The watch is mounted on a titanium base adorned with a marquetry of blued meteorite. A tilting lock secures it in its fixed mount. The watch can be displayed in several orientations—a reference to the adjustable presentation of historical marine chronometers. In its reference position, mirroring a marine chronometer, the watch measures 310 mm wide, 266 mm deep, and 260 mm high. Tilted, it reaches a maximum height of 313 mm. The dock interface—key to the Sympathique function—is discreetly concealed beneath a domed, engraved cover on the upper level of the watch. Made of rose gold, the dome is decorated with the constellation of Hercules – a subtle reference to the astrological sign of the Louis Vuitton founder.

To realize one of the watch's most poetic components, Flageollet turned to François Schuiten, a Belgian illustrator known for his imaginative, speculative worlds. Inspired by early 19th-century dioramas, Schuiten created three landscapes with immersive scenes of exploration: a steam train thundering across a viaduct, hot air balloons soaring over the African savanna, Sherpas climbing steep mountains. These miniature worlds orbit the mechanism, rotating slowly. The result is an ever-evolving dreamscape that suggests time is not linear but cyclical—surreal and sublime. Every moment of the day tells a unique story. To translate these intricate illustrations onto three separate 5N rose gold rings, Flageollet engaged master engraver Michèle Rothen. Her task was monumental: over a meter of hand-engraved surface, every line drawn from François Schuiten's original drawings. Using traditional graver and chisel, Rothen shaped the entire panorama by hand – results that are on par with the decorative clocks of the late Renaissance.

Tambour meets De Bethune: LVDB-03 GMT Louis Varius 
This wristwatch is not a simple DB25 GMT Starry Varius in a tambour case. It is a completely redesigned creation, embodying both De Bethune's DNA and Louis Vuitton's design codes – and incorporating an entirely new function: Sympathique synchronization. 


The 45 mm polished titanium case is blued using De Bethune's proprietary thermal oxidation process – a deep, vibrant blue that comes alive depending on the light. The tambour bezel bears the twelve letters "Louis Vuitton," sandblasted and individually polished. The platinum crown displays Louis Vuitton's iconic Monogram Flower and combines polished, sandblasted, and satin-finished surfaces. The lugs are hollowed out, with laser-blasted interior surfaces – a subtle textural contrast that accentuates the watch's architectural form. At just 14.05 mm thick, the watch is remarkably slim for the complexity it houses. 

The open case back offers a clear view of the DB2507LV caliber, a hand-wound movement with a five-day power reserve. With 404 components and 40 jewels, it combines advanced engineering with traditional craftsmanship. The movement displays hours and minutes, a second time zone (GMT) , a day/night indicator, and a jumping date. It is regulated by a blued titanium balance wheel, manually balanced with white gold inserts and a hairspring with a flat terminal curve. A silicon escape wheel and De Bethune's proprietary Triple Pare Chute shock-absorbing system further enhance its chronometric performance. Engraved on the case is the phrase "Louis cruises with Denis"—an intimate signature that celebrates the collaboration. Below this is the individual limited-edition number, from 01 of 12 to 12 of 12. 


The dial pays homage to De Bethune's signature cosmic language. A unique star chart discreetly forms the letters "LV," integrated into the constellation. The stars are hand-set white gold pins in micro-perforated holes of varying sizes—an exclusive, artisanal process developed in the De Bethune manufacture. Fine gold leaf is applied by hand by a decorator. A spherical day/night indicator rotates around the dial, completing two full rotations every 24 hours. Based on De Bethune's patented spherical moon-phase construction, the indicator is crafted from 5N rose gold (day) and flame-blued steel (night). Polished hour markers and drum numerals reinforce Louis Vuitton's design codes. The faceted hands—particularly sophisticated in their execution—reflect the deep blue tones of both the dial and the case.

Two types of exceptional cases were crafted for the LVDB-03 Louis Varius Project. First, a case inspired by Louis Vuitton's emblematic Trophy Trunks, designed and crafted to house the LVDB-03 Sympathique Louis Varius table clock. A dedicated titanium high-watchmaking case, crafted to the same high standard, was also created for the LVDB-03 GMT Louis Varius wristwatch. Each of these bespoke high-watchmaking cases contains a custom-made leather travel pouch, designed specifically for the LVDB-03 GMT Louis Varius. The bespoke Louis Vuitton cases are made of polished titanium—a material chosen for both its rarity and the technical challenge involved. 


Denis Flageollet brings 23 years of De Bethune innovation, Jean Arnault the vision of a house that has made travel part of its DNA. François Schuiten provides the poetic dimension, Michèle Rothen the artisanal perfection. The result is more than the sum of its parts. 

Images: Courtesy Brand 

This story first appeared on watchtime.net
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