The much-anticipated relaunch comprises the revival of the said historic timepieces with a modern touch, along with some new models and lines. The brand is launching timepieces under four major collections: Prêt-à-Porter, faithful recreations of Maisons's original icons; Capsule, limited seasonal editions; Couture Creations, unique timepieces developed in close collaboration with artisans; Signature timepieces, reinterpretations of iconic pieces. 

In the 1950s, the Polerouter entered its name in history as the watch aboard the Scandinavian Airlines System (SAS) flight over the North Pole. Universal Genève is now bringing it back with refreshing models. The new editions reimagine the original 20th-century model with a modern touch, while staying true to its iconic design and spirit. It remains instantly recognisable thanks to features like the outer dial ring, twisted lugs, and the signature crosshair—now refreshed with subtle, artistic updates. At its core is a new weekend-proof Microtor movement, UG-110, offering a 72-hour power reserve. This ensures the watch keeps running even if set aside for a couple of days, combining everyday practicality with refined engineering. True to Universal Genève’s identity as “Le Couturier de la Montre”, the Polerouter is available in both Prêt-à-Porter and capsule editions. Each model builds on the original design, with slight refinements that enhance its character, while special editions introduce more playful, contemporary elements. 

The Polerouter Prêt-à-Porter collection presents five core models. The signature crosshair sits on a domed dial with a dual finish; the outer dial ring features a mix of polished and matte textures, while the iconic twisted lugs are slightly refined for a more contemporary look. The watches come with an interchangeable brick bracelet, inspired by 1950s–60s Polerouter designs developed with Gay Frères. It includes micro-adjustments for comfort, and the bracelet can be easily swapped with an alligator leather strap. The collection is available in two sizes: 39 mm, which includes a date display, and 37 mm, offering a compact feel. The 39 mm versions are available in stainless steel with a black dial and black alligator strap, a blue dial with a steel brick bracelet, or in 18-karat rose gold with a brown dial and matching alligator strap. The 37 mm models come in stainless steel with a black dial and leather strap, as well as an 18-karat rose gold version featuring a diamond-set bezel and a white mother-of-pearl dial. The Polerouter capsule editions are available in six variations across two sizes; each model has its own distinct personality. The 37 mm Polerouter Camaïeu focuses on colour, with the dial divided into four sections, each in a different shade of the same tone. The Couture Aqua Mint comes in stainless steel with a diamond-set bezel, while the Toffee and Berry versions are crafted in 18-karat rose gold with diamonds set on both the case and bezel. The 39 mm Polerouter Hardstone models highlight natural stone dials, reflecting the brand’s history with stone craftsmanship. Lapis and tiger’s eye versions come in 18-karat rose gold cases, while the Bull’s Eye edition is in stainless steel. 

The new Compax models stay faithful to mid-century chronographs, with balanced proportions, high-contrast subdials, tachymeter bezels, and twisted lugs, all executed with a mix of polished and satin-brushed finishes in a 39.5 mm case. At its core is the new UG-200 calibre, an integrated chronograph movement that reflects the brand’s dual expertise in chronographs and micro-rotor technology, allowing for a thinner profile while maintaining efficient winding, contributing to the movement’s overall thickness of just 6.63 mm. Operating at 4 Hz, the calibre delivers a 72-hour power reserve. 

The Prêt-à-Porter collection introduces three core references, each equipped with ceramic tachymeter bezels and distinct dial configurations. The steel models revisit the classic panda and reverse panda layouts, prioritising legibility and visual clarity, while the 18-karat gold version pairs a deep midnight blue dial with contrasting white subdials. The watches are offered on a vintage-inspired steel bracelet, echoing the construction of 1960s Gay Frères designs, with micro-adjustment capability and interchangeability. Alternatively, a leather Bund strap—referencing Rindt’s personal styling—adds both functional wrist protection and a distinctive aesthetic.

Powering the Cabriolet is the newly developed UG-111 calibre, a manually wound movement engineered for slimness and resilience. At just 3 mm thick, it operates at 3 Hz and delivers a 72-hour power reserve, aligning with modern expectations of autonomy. The Prêt-à-Porter collection focuses on material and execution while retaining identical mechanical specifications across models. Stainless steel and 18-karat gold variants are paired with different dial treatments and bracelet or strap configurations, but all maintain the same case engineering and movement integrity. The reversible construction also reveals a transparent caseback, allowing visibility of the movement, while offering the option of a solid, customised back—either engraved or hand-decorated. The capsule editions extend the concept of the reversible case into the realm of artisanal craftsmanship. Every caseback is adorned with a hand-painted miniature of one of De Lempicka’s storied artworks. Executed in collaboration with renowned miniaturist Isabelle Villa. The capsule will debut with 15 pieces, offering collectors a choice of three paintings: “Portrait of Mrs Bush,” “Tamara in Green Bugatti,” and “Docteur Boucard”, with only five pieces created for each artwork. Additional paintings from De Lempicka’s archive will be introduced in future editions.

The brand introduces a new collection: the Disco Mini. It takes its name from the mid-century “Disco Volante” (or “flying saucer”) watches, reflected in its smooth, rounded, lug-free design and modern silhouette. It is first introduced as a bangle-style watch, with interchangeable tweed and alligator leather straps. Available in a variety of colours and textures, these straps allow the watch to easily adapt to different occasions. Inspired by Universal Genève’s 1950s multiband concept, the Disco Mini features a clever caseback clip system that allows the wearer to switch between the bangle bracelet and different straps with ease. The dial is made from mother-of-pearl (blue and white), offering a neutral base that pairs well with any strap. Its subtle three-dimensional finish enhances both the shape of the case and the visibility of the small hands. A hidden crown maintains the watch’s clean look. 

The Disco Mini Prêt-à-Porter collection includes two 28 mm models: one in rose gold with a textured “Clou de Paris” bezel, and another in white gold set with pavé diamonds. Both come with a flexible bangle inspired by late 1940s designs, updated with a discreet opening mechanism and available in three sizes. These models can also be worn with interchangeable straps—dark brown alligator leather for the rose gold version and blueberry purple for the white gold. Additional strap options include leather in Blossom Pink and Atomic Orange, as well as tweed straps in Honey Yellow and Chambray Blue, crafted by French ribbon maker Julien Faure.

The Disco Mini capsule edition, called Disco Mini Lace, offers a slightly larger 32 mm white gold model. It features a diamond-set bezel and a soft blue mother-of-pearl dial with a vintage touch. It comes with a white gold bangle, along with a taupe alligator strap, and is also compatible with the full range of additional straps.

The brand unveils its most exceptional creations through its Couture pieces, that pay tribute to the spirit of creative resurgence that defined the 1950s.

Dioramic Couture Edition 

The Dioramic Couture Edition draws inspiration from a 1956 Universal Genève model originally known as the Monodatic, now widely referred to as the Dioramic. Recognised for its thick, flat bezel and contrasting small dial. In the new model, the bezel is transformed into a domed, three-dimensional form, while the latticeworked case is adorned with scattered emeralds and champlevé lacquer accents. 

An artistic reinterpretation of the 1933 original, the Cabriolet Couture Edition blends jewellery and watchmaking into an Art Deco-inspired cuff with a hidden time display. Its geometric design is reworked into a sculptural bangle, where the rectangular form is repeated for a bold look. The dial remains concealed beneath one of the cases, revealed through the signature hinged mechanism. Crafted in white gold, the piece is set with baguette diamonds and sapphires in a herringbone pattern, inspired by woven textures. This effect continues on the mother-of-pearl dial, adding depth, softness, and a quiet elegance.

Disco Mini and Maxi Couture Edition 

Each dial of Disco Mini Couture Edition is cut from a rare opal. A halo of carefully selected gemstones surrounds the bezel on the case that is crafted from 18-karat rose gold, with each gem set in a refined three-prong mount, and paired with the Disco Mini’s signature flexible bangle bracelet, available in three sizes. Created especially for the couture creations, the Disco Maxi expands the Disco Mini into a bold 42 mm version. Inspired by the historic UniCompax chronographs that also influenced the Disco Volante Signature Edition, it stands out as both a statement jewel and a distinctive timepiece. The dial is made from ruby root, framed by a gradient of baguette-cut stones that transition from ruby to pink sapphire and finally to diamond, creating a warm, radiant effect. Set using an invisible baguette technique to enhance depth and brilliance, the gradient continues onto the case. Here, baguette-cut sapphires line the inner ring, while contrasting round sapphires frame the outer bezel, adding a sense of movement. The rose gold case enhances the warmth of the palette and is paired with a burgundy alligator leather strap. 

Alongside these exceptional creations, Universal Genève introduces its Signature Timepieces—modern interpretations of its most celebrated designs.

First launched in 1956 as the Monodatic and later known as the Dioramic, this model marked a shift toward a more expressive design language. Its wide bezel—unusual for the time—played an active role in displaying time and gave the watch a strong wrist presence. The contemporary version preserves these defining elements while adding subtle refinements. A lacquered dial with angled trapeze-shaped indexes creates depth and shifting reflections of light, framed by the signature oversized bezel with concentric fluting. Fully polished twisted lugs echo the original design, while a sapphire box crystal enhances the dial’s visual impact. The recessed calendar, integrated into the bezel, features updated numerals, and the open caseback reveals the twin-barrel UG110 Microtor calibre. The Dioramic Signature Edition is offered in two versions: stainless steel with a blue dial and matching strap, and 18-karat rose gold with a black dial and brown alligator strap.

Inspired by UniCompax chronographs of the late 1930s, the Disco Volante Signature Edition reflects Universal Genève’s legacy as a leading chronograph specialist. Certain vintage models were nicknamed “Disco Volante” (“flying saucer”) for their smooth, rounded, lugless case design. This modern interpretation revisits that profile with a lugless stepped case, featuring a polished inner bezel and engraved concentric detailing on the outer ring. A pronounced sapphire box crystal enhances the flowing silhouette, while the grained dial includes applied indexes, a two-counter UniCompax chronograph display, and a tachymeter scale. A transparent caseback completes the design. The watch is available in two versions: stainless steel with a blue dial and tone-on-tone counters paired with a blue strap, and 18-karat rose gold with a rose gold dial and black alligator strap.