This year at Watches and Wonders, Van Cleef & Arpels explores lunar cycles through new timepieces, combining astronomical indications with a dual-time display across time zones. The collection also includes jewellery watches that use materials to represent the night sky, alongside new additions to the Extraordinary Dials series with celestial-themed dial constructions.
Midnight Jour Nuit Phase de Lune
Van Cleef & Arpels expands its Jour Nuit collection, first launched in 2008, with a new model focused on lunar display. The watch combines two complications: a Jour/Nuit display driven by a 24-hour rotating disc, and a moon-phase indication based on a 29.5-day cycle, a function introduced by the brand in 1929. Both indications are integrated within a 42 mm white gold case.
The dial uses Murano aventurine glass to represent the sky, with a rotating system that alternates between a sun and a moon display. The sun element transitions out as the moon appears, moving across a horizon disc. The moon-phase remains visible on demand through a push-button on the case, which activates a full rotation of the dial for approximately 10 seconds to reveal the lunar display. On the caseback, the watch features an engraved surface representing lunar topography, along with an oscillating weight topped by a sapphire crystal featuring an enamel depiction of Earth. Additional elements include miniature painted planetary motifs and a guilloché base. The reverse side presents an alternate view of the system, representing the position of celestial bodies from a lunar perspective.
Midnight Heure d’ici & Heure d’ailleurs
A dual-time zone watch housed in a 38 mm Midnight case and powered by an automatic movement with a 65-hour power reserve. The watch uses a jumping hours display combined with retrograde minutes, where the minute hand returns to zero after reaching 60, while the hour disc advances forward. The dial includes two separate hour windows: the “Heure d’ici” in the upper section for local time and the “Heure d’ailleurs” in the lower section for a second time zone. Both time zones are synchronised through a system of sector gears that coordinate the movement of the hour discs and the retrograde minute hand. The entire mechanism is controlled through a single crown, which handles winding and the setting of both time zones and minutes. Additional features include an engraved caseback and a dial constructed using enamel and guilloché techniques, contributing to the structure of the display without affecting its mechanical functions.
Ludo Secret
The Ludo Secret watch is based on the Ludo bracelet design introduced in 1934 and revisits a model from 1949, integrating a concealed time display within a bracelet structure. The watch features a bracelet made of yellow gold links assembled by hand into a flexible mesh construction. Sapphires are set into the bracelet in crescent formations, forming part of the external structure. The time display is hidden beneath a cover that opens through a pressure mechanism applied to both sides of the clasp, revealing a dial made of mother-of-pearl with a guilloché surface. The dial includes a baguette-cut sapphire positioned at 12 o’clock as a marker. The watch combines a jewellery-style bracelet with a concealed watch case, where the primary technical feature is the hidden dial integrated into the clasp mechanism.
Perlée
This is a white gold model that combines watchmaking with a jewellery-based construction. The case features a round structure bordered by a double row of gold beads, forming the signature design of the collection. The dial is made of aventurine glass with a guilloché pattern and is protected by a convex crystal. The case includes a diamond-set edge and flange, with stones selected according to gem-setting standards. Time-setting is controlled through a push-button located on the back of the case, allowing adjustment without a visible crown. The watch is equipped with an interchangeable strap system and comes with an alligator strap, with additional strap options available for replacement.
Extraordinary Dials
The brand has introduced two lady watches as part of its Extraordinary Dials series, using decorative techniques to depict the story of Vega and Altair, two of the brightest stars in the night sky. The watches focus on dial construction, combining multiple enamel methods with gem-setting to create layered scenes. The Lady Rencontre Céleste model uses champlevé and grisaille enamel for the dial base, along with plique-à-jour enamel for translucent cloud elements. Diamonds are set within the enamel, while rose-cut diamonds are used to define facial features. A moon element is integrated into the dial, and a sapphire crescent is added using miniature painting techniques. The Lady Retrouvailles Célestes model also uses champlevé enamel for the dial, combined with plique-à-jour enamel and diamond setting to create transparent sections. The scene includes applied white gold elements shaped as birds, forming a structural bridge across the dial. Sapphires are set into a crescent form, contributing to the composition. Both watches feature engraved casebacks representing the Summer Triangle asterism, including Altair, Vega, and Deneb, linking the dial narrative with the rear design.
Images: Courtesy Brand
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