Watches and Wonders is the biggest international trade show for watches where industry bigwigs like Rolex and Patek Philippe and Co. showcase their creations. This year, there were 54 brands exhibiting their novelties including micro and independent brands. Here’s a list of 9 striking models from indie brands that stood apart for us -
1. Beauregard & Vianney Halter: Ulysse
We can look forward to a very special model thanks to the collaboration between Beauregard and Vianney Halter. The Ulysse, limited to ten pieces, combinés haute jewellery and haute horlogerie, fusing artistic design forms with technical sophistication. The result is a distinctive and unconventional design language that is inspired by the Art Deco style and focuses on organic lines and motifs. After a long research and three-year development phase, a timepiece was created that is not only technically impressive but also visually impressive. With 68 hand-cut miniature components made of Aqua Marin, the creative concept of stained glass is reinterpreted in a very special way. Placed on a disc of mother-of-pearl, the dial creates an incomparable play of light, which is enhanced by the purity and delicate colours of the stones. The innovative design of the calibre rounds off the overall picture. An invisible rotor allows an unhindered view of the complicated inner workings and will amaze lovers of precision mechanics. The 41 millimetre automatic watch made of rose gold has a 56-hour power reserve and is available on an alligator leather strap for Rs. 1,00,67,999 (approx.)
2. Charriol: Cruise Line
The Charriol brand was already pleased about the great success of its Navigator collection during Watches and Wonders 2023. So it's no wonder that new models and complications within this model line were also presented at this year's trade fair. Watches from the Cruise portfolio in particular, which are intended to point the way for the brand's future timepieces, shine with numerous innovations. A revised case, whose bezel is adorned with the brand lettering, is completed by striking lugs. This combination of elegance and sporty robustness gives the distinctive timepieces value and quality. Classically designed dials can be found embedded in variants made of steel, yellow or rose gold. The watches are also available in diameters of 28, 36 and 41 millimetres. Swiss-made automatic or quartz movements drive the new launches, which are water-resistant to 100 metres, with complications such as GMT or chronograph . The Cruise, which is also available with diamond trim and skeletonization, is available from Rs. 1,08,000 (approx.)
3. Ferdinand Berthoud: Chronomètre FB 1RES.4
The Chronomètre FB 2RE, presented in 2020, marked the turning point in the Maison Ferdinand Berthoud 's work. The brand's first round timepiece with a display via three central hands and a movement with double regulation paved the way into the future. With the new Chronomètre FB 1RES.4, a successor has now been presented that invites you to observe the mysterious precision mechanics of the award-winning calibre. A customizable motherboard, embedded in an octagonal, ceramic-coated titanium case, draws attention to how the FB-RES.FC movement works. Inspired by a skeleton table clock personally created by Ferdinand Berthoud in 1775, the new introduction includes a worm and chain gear that was combined with a one-second remontoire. This full-fledged chronometric complication balances the energy emanating from the barrel and acting on the escapement. It stores small amounts of force, which is then transferred to the balance wheel at a frequency of one second. The entirely hand-decorated, 44 millimetre watch, which consists of 1200 components and has a 50-hour power reserve, is wound by hand and worn on an alligator leather strap. The price can be requested from the Maison.
4. Hysek: IO chronograph
Since its founding in 1997, the Hysek brand has inspired people with its unusual design language for the watch industry. Visitors to this year's Watches and Wonders trade fair in Geneva were also delighted by this challenging and courageous style. What stands out among the new launches is the new chronograph from the IO line, the IO Chronographe. With its comparatively sober design for Hysek, it shines above all with its housing design. A closer look reveals the beauty and sophistication, which is complemented by the clear edges. The timepiece, which is available with a royal blue, white or black dial and is now also equipped with the in-house automatic calibre, also has a power reserve of 42 hours. The finishing, which is carried out by hand in the form of a charbonnage refinement, also creates enthusiasm, making each watch a unique piece. The 41 millimetre new model is available at a price of 17,21,000 (approx.)
5. Louis Moinet: Around the World in 8 Days
Thanks to Jean-Marie Schaller, Jules Verne's Odyssey has now not only been reinterpreted, but also translated into contemporary mechanical art . “Around the world in 8 days” is what Louis Moinet calls his latest collection, which includes eight watches and is intended to reflect the most magnificent metropolises in the world in an artistic way. The originality of the materials used, which range from minerals to high-tech materials to original parts of the Eiffel Tower, creates extraordinary dials that, upon closer inspection, suddenly awaken your wanderlust. Each of the major cities is embodied by a timepiece that attempts to capture the art, culture, architecture and technology typical of the country. Miniature paintings, precise hand engravings and complex puzzle dials complete this unique collection. The megacities Paris, Abu Dhabi, Bangkok, Kuala Lumpur, Singapore, Tokyo, San Francisco and New York can be viewed and admired on your own wrist. The new 40-millimetre hand-wound red gold models, each equipped with a flying tourbillon and a 96-hour power reserve, are only available as a set. The price including the leather-covered wooden case can be requested from the Maison.
6. Pequignet: Royal Tourbillon
With the introduction of the Royal Tourbillon, Pequignet is finally entering the field of watchmaking masterpieces. Lovers of French haute horlogerie can look forward to the brand's first flying tourbillon . The complex regulating mechanism is driven by a movement based on the in-house “Caliber Royal'' calibre, which provides a whopping 88-hour power reserve. The complication, traditionally positioned at six o'clock and installed without an upper bridge, gives the wearer the feeling that the precision mechanics are floating. Like the other components of the timepiece, the cage of the 1-minute tourbillon, which is made of highly resistant yet remarkably light titanium, is made entirely in France. Embedded in the 44 millimetre rose gold case is a blue dial with a water drop look. In keeping with this, the new launch is worn on a gorgeous blue alligator leather strap. The edition, limited to 24 pieces, is available for Rs. 57,75,000 (approx.)
7. Raymond Weil: Millesime
After almost 50 years of existence, Raymond Weil celebrated its official Watches and Wonders debut this year. With the introduction of the “Millesime'' collection, the brand is not only expanding its portfolio to include three new style dimensions, it is also introducing a total of eleven new references, all of which embody an unobtrusively elegant style. Restrained, luxurious design in tune with the times has always been the basis for Raymond Weil's work, who seeks to honour the heritage of Geneva watchmaking through sophisticated surface design and new complications. Quality and craftsmanship play a crucial role in the launch of the new products. The 39.5 millimetre model 2930, which was awarded the GPHG in 2023 and has a small second at 6 o'clock, is now also available in the colours Denim Blue and British Racing Green. As reference 2945, this model is also available with a moon phase complication. Fans of feminine design can also look forward to a delicate, 35 millimetre new product that is available with both diamond trim and a moon phase. A particularly thin stainless steel case of the references 2125 and 2145 makes them pleasant companions on the wrist. Last but not least, panda dials were also paid tribute. With the 39.5 millimetre Tri-Compax chronograph, which is equipped with a tachymeter scale, the coveted vintage charm is available for purchase. All watches are priced between Rs.1,44,000 (approx.) and 3,20,000 (approx.)
8. Speake Marin: Tourbillon Ultra Violet
A flying tourbillon in an excitingly designed case can be admired at Speake Marin. The brand, which often combines traditional watchmaking with ultra-modern design, is presenting the “Tourbillon Ultra Violet”, a new interpretation of the model that was first launched in 2020. This fresh and futuristic aesthetic, triggered by the work's main components framed in ultraviolet, creates an impressive contrast and attracts everyone's attention. The precision engineering is embedded in the iconic Piccadilly case, which is available in both 38 and 42 millimetres and is characterised by an interplay of polished and satin-finished surfaces. The openwork dial rounds off the overall look of the watch and reveals the flying tourbillon, the micro rotor and the power reserve indicator. The decorated barrel cover at ten o'clock can also be admired. The edition, limited to a total of nine pieces, is equipped with a 72-hour power reserve and the small version costs
Rs. 72,82,603 (approx.). For the four millimetre larger version you have to pay an additional amount around Rs. 36,000.
9. U-Boat: Sommerso Damasco
Damascus steel, which most people are more familiar with for swords or fine kitchen knives, can now also be admired in the form of a clock. With its new “Sommerso Damasco”, U-Boat is releasing an even more impressive diving watch, not least because of its size of 46 millimetres, which is almost entirely made of this extremely robust material, which is difficult to produce. The bezel, case back and crown protection also have the differently curved lines that are so characteristic of the material and are created by the forging process of the different types of steel. The resulting play of contrasts complements the vintage aesthetic, which is also reinforced by beige-coloured Superluminova . The Sellita SW200 works under the three-stage dial, which not only has a date complication, but also drives the 24-hour counter and is protected from water up to 300 metres deep. The price of the watch, which is worn on a rubber strap, is currently not known.
This article first published in WatchTime.net
Images: Courtesy WatchTime.net
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