Watches and Wonders 2025: 11 fresh launches that caught our eye

Watches and Wonders Geneva, never fails to amaze watch collectors, enthusiasts and makers, and this year was no different. Apart from new releases from major manufacturers like Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Cartier, many other small and independent manufactures showcased spectacular innovations, exceptional complications, design techniques and materials.

1. Trilobe – Le Temps Retrouvé

No hands, dials, or indices – Trilobe 's new creation takes the form of an antique-looking bust, reflecting the manufacturer's creativity in a completely new way. Around 2,000 hours of work transform the 2,050 components into a work of art that seems to come alive with the passage of time. While the hours are read through segments on the sides of the head that open throughout the day, the minutes are symbolised by eye movements. An independent mechanism integrated into the timepiece, which has an eight-day power reserve, also releases a delicate fragrance into the ambient air.

2. ArtyA – Purity Wavy HMS Mirror

ArtyA 's new model features a floating caliber created by the mirrored caseback. The "Purity Wavy HMS Mirror" is also powered by the brand's new in-house "Stairway to Heaven HMS" caliber, which, in addition to a 72-hour power reserve, also features a fine adjustment mechanism and two mainspring barrels. The transparent DLC coating makes the micro-bead-blasted titanium case resistant to scratches and lends the watch a robust yet luxurious aesthetic. Water-resistant to five bar, the timepiece is worn on an alligator or nubuck leather strap, measures 40 millimeters in diameter, and costs INR 27,16,065.

3. Christiaan van der Klaauw – Grand Planetarium Eccentric Meteorite

Christiaan Van der Klaauw presents pure haute horlogerie combined with a very special complication. The "Grand Planetarium Eccentric Meteorite" connects the representation of time with space thanks to its case made entirely of meteorite. Particularly impressive is the "Eccentric Planetarium" complication, which is capable of precisely displaying the position and movement of all eight planets relative to the sun. Equipped with a 60-hour power reserve, the timepiece is limited to just three pieces.

4. Cyrus – Dominion GMT

The new Cyrus launch also represents a confident design language . The "Dominion GMT" is available in gold and titanium in limited editions of 25 and 28 pieces respectively, and features an elaborately crafted 42-millimeter case. The automatic in-house caliber CYR708 can be seen through the skeletonized dial. It has a 55-hour power reserve and, in addition to the retrograde GMT complication, also powers a small seconds hand at six o'clock. The timepiece, which is water-resistant to 10 bar, comes with a black alligator leather strap and is available starting at the equivalent of around INR 25,96,500 (approx.). The gold version carries a surcharge of approximately INR 20,90,800 (approx.)

5. Ferdinand Berthoud – FB 3SPC.3

Ferdinand Berthoud 's FB 3 collection is delighted to welcome a new addition. The recently presented "FB 3SPC.3" is crafted from platinum and is also available in a limited edition of 20 pieces, each with a pink or black PVD coating. Thanks to the finest skeletonization, the in-house hand-wound caliber FB-SPC, which boasts a 72-hour power reserve and is water-resistant to a pressure of three bar, can be admired from both the back and front. The silver-colored minute and second displays, as well as the polished, blue-CVD-coated gold hands, create a striking contrast. The 42.3-millimeter timepiece, which also features a power reserve indicator at two o'clock, is complemented by an alligator leather strap.

6. Genus – GNS2 Time2Race

This extraordinary new Genus watch pays homage to the motorsport era of the 1960s and 1970s. Inspired by precision and speed, the dial of the "GNS2 Time2Race" transforms into a racetrack on which three hand-engraved rose gold racing cars race against each other. While the leading car symbolizes the minutes, arrows reminiscent of racetrack boundaries indicate the hours. Powering this exciting mechanism is the in-house hand-wound caliber 260Rh-2, which delivers a 50-hour power reserve and is water-resistant up to 3 bar. The 43-millimeter titanium case of this timepiece, which costs the equivalent of approximately INR 97,26,600 is worn on a rubber strap .

7. Grönefeld – 1944 Tanfana

With the "1944 Tanfana," Grönefeld presents its first model for women. The 37.5-millimeter timepiece features a rose gold case set with a total of 233 brilliant-cut diamonds. The aventurine dial adds further brilliance, with its characteristic metallic inclusions creating unique reflections. The in-house automatic caliber G-06 reliably displays the time and powers the small, floral seconds hand. It is water-resistant up to three bar and offers a power reserve of 56 hours. The INR 1,14,77,400 (approx) watch, which also features a rose gold rotor , can be worn on a variety of leather straps.

8. Kross X Studio – MT1 Chronomètre Tourbillon 7 Jours

The new "MT1 Chronomètre Tourbillon 7 Jours" model presented by Kross X Studio presents itself with a technical and complex appearance . The 44-millimeter, ergonomically designed titanium watch features a skeletonized dial that reveals the precision mechanics of the KS 7'010 MT in-house caliber with manual winding, which boasts an impressive seven-day power reserve and also houses a flying tourbillon at six o'clock. Rose gold hands, coated with Superluminova , create a sophisticated contrast and ensure relatively good legibility. Thanks to a quick-change system, the straps of this timepiece, which is water-resistant to three bar and costs the equivalent of approximately INR 71,37,200, can be easily swapped.

9. Rudi's Sylva – RS23

Rudis Sylva also offers special mechanical insights with his recently presented "RS23," which is available in both titanium and rose gold and sits confidently on the wrist with a case size of 44 millimeters. Polished and brushed surfaces reveal intricate machining techniques that continue within the in-house hand-wound caliber, which boasts a 72-hour power reserve. In addition to the skeletonized dial, the hands also feature delicate recesses. A hand-engraved case back stylishly rounds off the aesthetics of the timepiece, which is also available with a DLC coating upon request.

10. Speake Marin – Ripples Gold

Speake Marin 's new launch receives a special kind of refinement . The latest version of the "Ripples Gold" is now made entirely of rose gold – right down to the minimalist baton indices. The crown of the 40.3-millimeter timepiece is screwed down, thus reliably protecting the in-house caliber SMA03-T, which has a 52-hour power reserve, from water pressure up to five bar. Behind the characteristically grooved dial lies a micro-rotor , which can be admired through the glass case back. Complete with a textile leather strap, the price is approximately INR 35,97,800 (approx).

11. U-Boat – U-65

Filled with oil and equipped with a hyperconvst appared on ex crystal, the new model from U-Boat is a real eye-catcher. The "U-65" features a 44mm, PVD-coated stainless steel case filled with oil right up to the curved crystal. The air bubble located above the skeletonized dial, coated with Superluminova, serves to regulate temperature. It is powered by the Ronda 756 quartz caliber , which is water-resistant up to five bar. For INR 2,43,100, this eye-catcher, worn on a silicone strap, can be worn on your wrist.

Images: Courtesy Brand

This story first appeared on Watchtime.net.

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