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A guide to knowing different types of case shapes

From the classic to the unconventional, here's a list of a wide variety of case shapes
Among the various components that define a watch, the case plays a key role. Crafted in a range of materials it’s the fount from which springs the bezel, lugs, and crown. It is also the case which encapsulates the dial and the movement. There are a wide variety of case shapes, and while the most common one is round, over time brands have experimented with the likes of rectangular, square, oval, tonneau, cushion and more to create timepieces that not just stand out but also excel in both functionally. Know more about them in our list below.

1. Round-shaped watch case


Probably the most loved and most common type of case shape, the round shape is also the first one that emerged in wristwatches as early pocket watches were also round, and that’s why it’s likely that most brands have adopted it for their timepieces. Round cases are easy and convenient because the hands on the dial follow a circular path. 

2. Square-shaped watch case

Bell & Ross Diver White Bronze

Cartier Santos was the first square-shaped case watch to be worn on the wrist in 1904. Since then, the square shape has also gained popularity among collectors. One of TAG Heuer’s most popular collections, the Monaco, comes in a square case. Other examples include Bell & Ross’s BR-03 watches and Nomos Glashuette’s Tetra collection. 

3. Rectangle-shaped watch case

Tank Louis Cartier

Introduced in 1917, the Cartier Tank was the first rectangular-shaped watch. It was inspired by the design of military tanks during World War I. Rectangular watches give a sleek look to your wrist, evidenced by Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso and Longines’ Dolce Vita, which are two examples of rectangular watches. 


4. Oval-shaped watch case

Breguet Reine de Naples Saint-Valentin 9915

One of the most loved oval-shaped watches is the Cartier Baignoire. Released in 1958, the Ovale Cintré, also Cartier’s, was the first oval-shaped watch, inspired by the curves of a bathtub. This shape is mostly used for women's watches as oval looks more feminine on the wrist. Other examples of oval-shaped watches include Breguet’s Reine de Naples watches. 

5. Tonneau-shaped watch case

Franck Muller the Curvex CX Lady

Introduced in 1906, ‘tonneau’ means ‘barrel’ in French. It is an elongated rectangular shape with curved edges. Tonneau Cintrée by Cartier was the first watch in a tonneau shape, inspired by the shape of a wine barrel. Originally meant for women’s wrists, it was later embraced by many brands including, Longines, Franck Muller, Hublot, Tissot, and  Richard Mille among others. 

6. Cushion-shaped watch case

Panerai Radiomir Annual Calendar Goldtech™ PAM01363

Rolex was the first brand that came up with a cushion-shaped watch in 1920. The cushion shape in watches is a blend of square and round, and exudes a vintage charm. Panerai’s Radiomir collection features cushion-shaped watches. The brand also calls it a ‘squircle’ shape. Other brands that make cushion-shaped watches include Vacheron Constantin and Longines. 


7. Octagonal-shaped watch case
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Extra Thin Jumbo Ref. 15202ST

Audemars Piguet was the first brand to introduce an octagonal-shaped watch in 1972, with the release of Royal Oak, thanks to the legendary designer Gerald Genta who designed it. It has been an impactful shape since its inception, and brands like TAG Heuer, Baume & Mercier, Girard-Perragaux, Bulgari, and Zenith all have iconic watches in this shape. 

8. Pebble-shaped watch case

Zanskar watch paired with FKM nicobar blue strap

Again, it was Cartier who launched the first pebble-shaped watch, Cartier London in 1972. Though the pebble shape is also circular, what differentiates the pebble shape is its smooth curved silhouette, and stepped style case which gives a vintage feel when worn on the wrist. The brands incorporating pebble-shaped watches include Bangalore Watch Company’s Peninsula and Louis Vuitton’s  among others. 

9. Television-shaped watch case


This is a retro yet futuristic type of case shape. The shape is neither square nor a rectangle, and instead a bit cushion-y featuring a wider area horizontally. Brands that are popular for using this shape include Mido, Hautlence, and Seagull. 

10. Baroque-shaped watch case 
Gerald Charles Maestro GC39 Remaster

Baroque is an artistic case shape design, inspired by Baroque architecture. It was another iconic design by Mr. Genta, now used by the brand he founded, Gerald Charles, in all their collections. The case is asymmetric and features a curve at 6, which is also known as a ‘smile’. 


11. Ellipse-shaped watch case 

Longines and Patek Philippe have used ellipse shapes in their case designs. This symmetrical shape appears like an elongated circle with a mix of a rectangle. Wearing on the wrist, the shape looks more regal and vintage. 

12. East-West-shaped watch case 
As the name suggests, the east-west shape is elongated horizontally and not vertically. It can be oval or rectangular. It is also a vintage style, and the brands using this shape include Girard-Perragaux, Piaget, and Tiffany & Co. 

13. Asymmetrical-shaped watch case 

Audemars Piguet - [Re]Master 02 Selfwinding

Asymmetrical cases are unique as they do not follow the set rule of lines, curves and symmetry. Bold and artistic, the most iconic asymmetric watches are Cartier Crash, Cartier Cloche, Audemars Piguet’s ReMaster, and Berneron’s Mirage among others. 

Images: Courtesy brands 
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Launched in 2012, WatchTime India is the result of a collaboration between America's most-read watch magazine, WatchTime and, India's leading media house, Malayala Manorama. With an aim to popularise and celebrate the evolving watch culture of the country, the publication is your one-stop destination for everything related to fine luxury watches. From the latest tests to reviews, to exclusive features on the history and horological heritage of some of the most spectacular watch brands of the world, the WatchTime India portal has a lot to offer. Stay tuned for an exciting journey, through the fascinating world of watches!

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