Watch brands often look into their past to draw inspiration and create designs. But it is particularly exciting when old, historic timepieces are resurrected and developed in a modern language. In this article, we feature five such iconic watches from brands like Piaget, IWC Schaffhausen, Favre Leuba, Vacheron Constantin, and Cartier that not just created lasting impressions when they first launched, but have equally exciting modern avatars.
1. Piaget Polo 79
Blending Piaget’s mastery in both watchmaking and jewellery, in 1979, the first Piaget Polo (Ref. 761C701) was introduced as the brand’s first luxury sports watch. The timepiece was titled the ‘world’s ultimate sports watch’ mostly due to its integrated bracelet design. The watch appeared in gold in case sizes of 27mm and 34mm, featuring both a square and round shape. Following popularity, the Maison released other versions including the Polo Date (Ref. 15561) in 30mm and 32mm, featuring a date window at 3 o’clock, and Polo Day-Date model (Ref. 15562) measuring 32mm.
The opulent watch made a comeback last year with the introduction of Polo 79, to celebrate the brand’s 150th anniversary. What made it distinctive and timeless was how beautifully and flawlessly the dial merged with the bracelet. The novelty entails an 18K yellow gold case with gadroons, going onto the dial and bracelet, and a ratcheted crown with ‘P’ engraved on it. Furthermore, the dial also carries the signature design with the presence of only a gold bead minute track and faceted minute and hours dauphine hands, and a Piaget logo resting at 12 o’clock. Read in detail here. The resurrected version was loved so much that the brand has recently introduced another iteration in white gold.
2. IWC Schaffhausen Ingenieur
The first Ingenieur was SL Ref. 1832, designed by Gerald Genta in 1976. The timepiece became an instant hit with its bold aesthetic codes like the screw-on bezel with five recesses, a structured dial, and an integrated H-link bracelet. It was highly appreciated by watch lovers and was nicknamed ‘Jumbo’ because of its impressive case size 40mm.. The model was discontinued in 1983. However, in 2023, the brand decided to bring it back with a reinterpreted version, the Ingenieur Automatic 40. The timepiece delighted watch aficionados with its slick, perfect technical design codes albeit more streamlined, compact, seamless, and modern. There were four iterations released - three stainless steel references (Ref. IW328901, Ref. IW328902, and Ref. IW328903 with black, silver, and aqua dials in that order), and one titanium model with a grey dial.
Following the love received by all these versions, this year the brand introduced several new iterations of the Ingenieur. There are three compact variations in 35mm; a 40mm 18K gold model; a 40mm version, in collaboration with the upcoming Apple Original Film "F1® THE MOVIE", limited to just 1000 (Ref. IW328908); a 42mm version in black ceramic (Ref. IW338903); and for the first time, integrated with Kurt Klaus's renowned perpetual calendar complication (Ref. IW344903). Read about all the Ingenieurs released this year here.
3. Vacheron Constantin 222
Since it's the 270th anniversary of Vacheron Constantin, the brand kicked off the celebrations by bringing back a popular, classic watch from its collection, the 222 (Ref. 44018). Originally released on the occasion of the brand’s 222nd anniversary in 1977, it was designed by Swiss watch designer Jorg Hysek, and became a hit thanks to being the right fusion of sporty and formal. From its iconic tonneau-shaped monobloc case featuring a Maltese cross stamped at 5 o’clock and fluted bezel, to the large hexagonal central link integrated bracelet and a thin case structure, the watch was admired for its appealing aesthetics.
This year’s 37mm 222 in steel pays a direct tribute to the original version, and its release has definitely made watch lovers happy. The watch represents the brand’s commitment to craftsmanship, design, and timeless elegance. Read the detailed story about the watch here.
4. Favre Leuba Deep Blue Revival
Last year, the 287-year-old brand Favre Leuba was resuscitated with the release of 22 new watches across three lines - Chief (land), Deep Blue (sea), and Sea Sky (air). The relaunch was led by CEO and Chairman Patrik Hoffmann. While all the watches pay tribute to the brand’s archival models, the most prominent one was the Deep Blue Revival (Ref. 00.20307.100.06.200) a recreation introduced to commemorate the line’s 60th anniversary.
The original Deep Blue was created in 1964 and was the most legendary dive watch by the brand. It was robust, functional, and a legible dive watch, so much so that the brand advertised it as “The Swiss Watch for All Climates”. The new reinterpreted version resembles the iconic design. It features a 39mm steel case with a retro dial and vintage egg-shell coloured Super-LumiNova®. The caseback is closed, and the bracelet is a carefully constructed and ergonomically designed as vintage five-link bracelet with a butterfly clasp, also replicated from the original Deep Blue.
5. Cartier Tortue
Designed by Louis Cartier, Tortue (which means ‘turtle’ in French) was first released in 1912. Its birth marked Cartier’s embrace of organic forms in an era of rigid design. It had a rounded, shell-like silhouette, a sophisticated design which emphasised curves and taut lines, and hence instantly caught the eye. The watch was a good fit for both men and women, and was later introduced featuring complications like a tourbillon and perpetual calendar amongst others.
Reviving the design and aesthetics of the progenitor, the brand launched five models of the Tortue in precious metals at Watches and Wonders 2024. Three were time-only versions, while two models were monopoussoir chronographs appearing in yellow gold and platinum, each limited to 200 pieces. Later last year, keeping the watch true to its design codes, the brand presented the Tortue in a compact size of 26.15mm x 20.9mm in yellow gold. Read more about the Tortue here.
Images: Courtesy brands
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