What sets the Longines apart from its peers is, first of all, that its case is crafted from 18K gold, while at that time, in North America, 14K gold was the standard. Diamond-set bezels were fairly common, but the Signet Longines opted for rather large stones, which were also used on the lugs. To make them fit, holes were drilled in the bezel to accommodate the culet, the technical term for the tip at the bottom of a brilliant-cut gemstone. As the diamond itself sealed the hole, moisture and dust were kept out to the same degree as other dress watches of that era. 

Quite a contrast to its abundant case is the dial. While Longines also offered watches with diamond-set markers in its collection, they went for a more restrained choice for the Signet. The silver-coloured dial featured a slightly recessed subdial for the seconds hand, just above the 6 o’clock marker. Those markers are, like the hands, quite slender, and doubled at the 12, 3, 6 and 9 o’clock positions. The Longines name and logo, as well as the markings around the subdial are the only things printed on the dial. This gives it a very clean look, which not only safeguards legibility but, in a twist, also puts more emphasis on the lavish use of diamonds on the case. This also made it the perfect watch for the self-made businessman, as it underscored that his considerable wealth had been obtained by a practical and efficient approach.

With a width of just above 25mm and a length of 29mm (without lugs), the Longines Signet is modest in size by today’s standards, yet unmistakably a men’s watch in the 1950s. Longines kept the corners rather sharp, which prevents the case of the Signet from getting a feminine elegance, and again, it is the straightforward design of the dial that also plays an important role in this. With a thickness of 7.75mm, the Longines is also well proportioned in that segment. It gives some body to the case, without being overly thick. Inside the case, we find Caliber 9LT. Back in the day, this was a fairly common yet outstanding cushion-shaped manufacture calibre and the perfect fit for the rectangular case of the Signet. 

The manual-wound movement was fitted with 17 jewels, of which three were prominently set in gold (plated) chatons next to the balance wheel. The elegantly shaped bridges show chamfered edges, another indication of the quality of this calibre. Unlike the dial, the movement is signed ‘Swiss’. The reason for this is that Longines made these calibres in its manufacture in Saint-Imier, the brand’s headquarters in the canton of Bern, Switzerland. The movements were shipped to the US, where a Longines subsidiary company had cases and dials locally made. The reason to do so was that this would avoid the heavy import duties that Swiss-made watches faced in the United States. In addition, it allowed brands like Longines to cater to local tastes and trends. These were quite different as most of Europe was still recovering from the destructions of World War II, while the economy in the United States was booming like never before. This allowed for the development of local delicacies that now take a unique position in the rich heritage of Longines, and of which the Signet might be one of the most precious examples.

Images: Courtesy Brand 

This story first appeared in WatchTime India's January 2025 issue.