It is routine for Audemars Piguet to drop its major novelties for the year towards the end of February or in early March, and this year was no different. Early today, the brand unleashed several new timepieces within its Royal Oak, Royal Oak Offshore, and Code 11.59 lines, though foremost amongst them was the collaborative piece with musician John Mayer. In this first part, we dive into the details of that watch, along with several new Royal Oak models.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar ‘John Mayer’ Limited Edition
To start off, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar ‘John Mayer’ Limited Edition (Ref. Ref. 26574BC.OO.1220BC.02) is a 41mm white gold watch that is meant to be the last iteration of the Manufacture’s selfwinding Calibre 5134. Developed in close collaboration with the seven-time Grammy® Award-winning artiste, who is known for his love of watches, the dial of the timepiece is inspired by a crystal sky, and created using an embossed motif composed of irregular shapes resembling crystals with sharp angles and facets that add depth. To achieve this, the brand says that the “stamping die was created atom by atom, through a metal deposition process known as electroforming”.
At 12 o’clock rests the month and leap year indication, and at 3 is the date subdial. At 6 o’clock is a moonphase in an aperture, while at 9 is the day of the week subdial. The rehaut has the week of the year, with a central hand providing the indication. All the subdials are in blue with the typography in white to further enhance the elegance of the dial.
The watch is powered by the Calibre 5134, and it will be the last Audemars Piguet watch to flaunt it. Launched in 2015, the Calibre 5134 adapted the perpetual calendar movement to a larger case diameter of 41mm, while maintaining a thin profile with a thickness of 4.3mm. The brand says that this movement was particularly iconic as it helped renew the attention to this high complication in the world of Audemars Piguet. The watch has a 40 hours power reserve.
With the launch of the watch, John Mayer has also been announced as the new ‘Creative Conduit’ of the brand, which means that he will act as a bridge between collectors and the brand. The watch is a limited edition of 200 pieces.
Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet in 38mm and 41mm
As the Code 11.59 collection turns five this year, Audemars Piguet has introduced seven new models, all in 18K pink gold, which highlight the evolution of the line. While maintaining the characteristic design and aesthetic of the collection – namely the embossed dial pattern of concentric circles that are akin to ripples on the surface of water, and play with light quite strongly – the models do feature subtle updates, like, elongated, flattened, facetted, and luminescent pink gold hour-markers, and a slightly modern shape of the crown and buckle.
The first of the models is the time and date 38mm Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding in a sky blue (Ref. 77410OR.OO.A344CR.01), and the signature Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50 hue (Ref. 77410OR.OO.A342CR.01). With both polished and satin-finished surfaces, their cases are flanked with alligator straps, or textured rubber strap in light or dark blue. The watches are driven by Calibre 5900, with a maximum of 60 hours power reserve.
The second set of models are in 41mm, both selfwinding and chronographs. In the selfwinding versions, there is a green time and date model (Ref.15210OR.OO.A056KB.01), and a Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50 one with a grey flange (Ref. 15210OR.OO.A348KB.01). The cases are flanked by the textured rubber straps on the same hue as the dial, and the watches are driven by Calibre 4302 with a power reserve of 70 hours. The chronograph models come in three versions. There is the green one (Ref. 26393OR.OO.A056KB.01) with a dial with green counters with external gold zone, and a full green counter at 6 o’clock; the Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50 dial (Ref. 26393OR.OO.A348KB.01) with a grey counter at 6 o’clock; and a black dial; version with a black ceramic case middle. The chronographs run on Calibre 4401, with a 70-hour power reserve.
Audemars Piguet Selfwinding models in 34mm and 37mm
The new petite and elegant 34mm models consist of the 18K pink gold version with a pink dial (Ref. 77450OR.OO.1361OR.01) and a dual tone stainless steel watch with pink gold on the bezel and links (Ref. 77450SR.OO.1361SR.02). Both watches feature a Grande Tapisserie dial, a date window at 3 o’clock, and are powered by the Calibre 5800, providing 50 hours of power reserve. The pink hue of the new watch has been obtained by ALD or Atomic Layer Deposition, while the grey dual tone of the bi-material watch is crafted using PVD. The movement and the gold oscillating weight are visible via the sapphire caseback.
The 37mm models launched begin with the bejewelled versions in pink gold and white gold. The pink gold version’s dial has been executed in light blue with a light blue strap in leather (Ref. 15551OR.ZS.D344CR.01), while gradient blue sapphires dot the bezel; the case, lugs, and clasp on the other hand are set with 164 brilliant-cut diamonds. In the white gold version (Ref.15551BC.ZZ.D405CR.01), is fully set with 204 brilliant-cut diamonds. Both timepieces feature two hour-markers at 12 o’clock set with eight diamonds. Both timepieces are powered by Calibre 5900, with a 4 Hz frequency and a 60-hour power reserve.
The next 37mm model is the Royal Oak Frosted Gold Selfwinding in 18K yellow gold with a frosted finish (Ref. 15550BA.GG.1356BA.01). The bezel and bracelet flaunt a shimmering effect created by hammered gold, a technique that is inspired by an age-old jewellery technique that originated in Florence. Reinterpreted by jewellery designer Carolina Bucci. Marks are chiseled into the gold using a diamond-tipped tool. This effect is contrasted by the polished and satin finishes of the case, and side of the bezel and bracelet. Furthermore, the watch sports a smokey dial, black towards the edges, and gold in the centre. This is achieved with the application of a black spray varnish, done entirely by hand with a tool similar to a pen. The smoked gradient is sprayed from the edge of the dial towards the centre and out again. The result is a darker hue around the periphery, without any clear demarcations. The watch is powered by the Calibre 5900, with a high 4Hz frequency and a 60-hour power reserve.
Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Chronograph 41mm
Playing up the smokey dial aesthetic is the Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Chronograph 41mm in 18K yellow gold. The dial features a yellow gold-toned Grande Tapisserie motif, gold counters of the chronograph - there is the hour counter at 3 o'clock, the small seconds at 6 o'clock and the 30-minute counter at 9 o'clock set against the smokey effect of the dial. With an overall vintage feel, the watch is powered by the Calibre 4401 with a flyback function and an autonomy of 70 hours. The 22K pink gold oscillating weight is visible through the sapphire caseback, along with the traditional decorations on the movement. The watch is water resistant to 50 metres.
Images: Courtesy Audemars Piguet
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