MB&F launches its smallest and thinnest watch ever, the SP One

After making trailblazing, attention-grabbing timepieces, many of them featuring complications, MB&F has now launched its slimmest, time-only watch, a first for the brand. At just 12mm thick, MB&F SP One is a dress watch, and something that “no one expected”, in the words of the owner and CEO, Maximilian Büsser.

Inaugurating the namesake collection - SP One stands for ‘Special Project’ - the watch was initially dubbed as ‘Three Circles’ owing to its design that resembles a smiley face. The timepiece, designed by watch designer and brand’s longtime friend, Eric Giroud, is also the smallest watch ever released by the brand with a 38mm pebble-shaped case. Despite being thin, this watch boasts a three-dimensional presence thanks to its domed sapphire crystal that seamlessly blends the front and back with the case.

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Embodying ‘less is more’, the watch is designed with the barrel, balance wheel, and dial looking like they are suspended in the case - the bridges are cleverly hidden under the movement, though closer inspection reveals parts of the three-spoked bridge under the mainspring and balance wheel, attached to the flange. The rest of the space inside the case is a void, much like an ‘amphitheatre’ as termed internally by the brand, making it an interesting visual experience. Most of the components are hidden beneath the three key elements, making it a complex architecture to achieve.

There is sapphire glass on both the front and back, and the watch design is sans bezel; the lugs are detached and connected to the caseback, which furthers the floating effect of the case. The inclined black DLC dial is placed at 6 o’clock, along with the mainspring barrel at 10 o’clock, and balance wheel, placed at 2 o’clock. Flipping the SP One over reveals traditional hand finishing and artisanal craftsmanship. Visible from the caseback, all wheels are hand-angled, with prominent chatons, and the finish balance is subtle between satin, polished, and micro- blasted surfaces.

The SP One is special in other ways as well. The collection has been in the works for years, with the first sketch dating back to 2018. It is powered by an in-house developed SP One movement that offers 72 hours power reserve.

The maiden outing in SP One collection comes in two choices of metal – platinum with a sky-blue bevelled flange and rose gold with an anthracite bevelled flange. The watch is worn on a calfskin strap.