In a spectacular showcase of horological mastery, Vacheron Constantin unveils a series of limited edition timepieces at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2025, celebrating the prestigious Maison's 270th anniversary.
Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication: A Masterpiece of Horological Innovation
In a stunning achievement that pushes the boundaries of mechanical watchmaking, Vacheron Constantin has unveiled the Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication – La Première, a timepiece that stands as the most complicated wristwatch in horological history. With an unprecedented 41 complications, this extraordinary single-piece edition represents the culmination of eight years of research and development and embodies the Maison's 270-year pursuit of excellence.
The Solaria is a technical marvel that required 13 patent applications and houses 1521 components within a surprisingly wearable 45mm diameter white gold case that measures just 14.99mm in thickness. This remarkable feat of miniaturization demonstrates Vacheron Constantin's unparalleled mastery of the watchmaker's art and their commitment to their founding motto: "Do better if possible, and that is always possible."
At the heart of the Solaria beats the new manufacture Calibre 3655, designed with an ingenious architecture that distributes its many functions across two connected sections. The base movement combines time, chronograph, and chiming functions, while an additional mechanism just 2.8mm thick integrates all the astronomical indications. The two sections are joined by an innovative "plug and play" mounting system that allows for perfect indexing and simplified servicing.
What truly distinguishes this exceptional timepiece is its astronomical capabilities. The Solaria offers a world-first combination of five rare astronomical complications, including four related to the apparent path of the Sun: its position, height, culmination, and declination. The fifth function, a world premiere, is the temporal tracking of celestial objects, which combines a split-seconds chronograph with a representation of the celestial vault to calculate the time required for a constellation or specific star to appear in the observer's field of vision.
The watch displays three different concepts of time simultaneously—civil, solar, and sidereal—each with its dedicated gear train. The civil time (standard 24-hour day) is shown on the front dial with central hour and minute hands, complemented by world time and a second time zone display. Sidereal time (23 hours, 56 minutes, 4 seconds), which measures Earth's rotation relative to fixed stars, is displayed on the caseback. Solar time, which accounts for the variations in the Sun's position throughout the year, is indicated through the equation of time on the front dial.
The complexity extends to a Gregorian perpetual calendar with an innovative ISO 8601 standard date display, showing the four-digit year, week number, and day of the week. This is complemented by an astronomical moon phase with an accuracy maintained for 122 years without correction and a mareoscope displaying spring and neap tides.
The Solaria's chiming mechanism represents another pinnacle of innovation, with seven of the 13 patent applications dedicated to its Westminster minute repeater. The design employs four gongs and four hammers with a novel architecture that optimizes sound quality despite the movement's complexity. An innovative selector allows the wearer to choose between a repeater that strikes only the hours or the traditional sequence of hours, quarters, and minutes.
Equal attention has been paid to the watch's aesthetics and legibility. The front dial employs a sophisticated play of contrasts with different shades of gray created through various finishes—sunburst, sandblasted, and circular satin-polished. The counter at 6 o'clock features a 5mm diameter Earth dome in rhodium-plated 18K gold with polished continents and sandblasted oceans, while the declination of the sun is highlighted by a polished 18K yellow gold half-sphere.
The reverse side displays the constellations, the equatorial ellipse, the ecliptic ellipse, months, and chronograph functions. The two split-seconds chronograph hands are lacquered in green and red for maximum contrast, with these colors echoed in the 72-hour power reserve indication.
Les Cabinotiers Hommage à la Tour de l'Île: Three Unique Masterpieces
The crown jewel of Vacheron Constantin's 270th-anniversary celebration is the "Les Cabinotiers Hommage à la Tour de l'Île" collection, featuring three extraordinary one-of-a-kind timepieces that pay tribute to Geneva's iconic Tour de l'Île, a monument with profound historical connections to the Maison.
The Tour de l'Île represents a significant landmark in Geneva's history. Originally part of a 13th-century fortress built to defend the city, this medieval tower stands on a small island in the middle of the Rhône River. The strategic location where the river flows into Lake Geneva has been crucial for trade routes connecting northern and southern Europe since pre-Roman times.
Vacheron Constantin's connection to this historic monument runs deep. In 1843, the company installed its workshops in the Tour de l'Île, displaying its signage on the façade. In 1875, they moved to larger workshops about a hundred meters away on Quai des Moulins, before opening their first boutique in the Tower in 1906.
The "Les Cabinotiers Hommage à la Tour de l'Île" collection features three one-of-a-kind timepieces, each showcasing different decorative arts mastered by Vacheron Constantin's in-house artisans:
Miniature Grand Feu Enamel: This platinum-cased model features a dial painted in miniature Grand Feu enamel with pastel tones, reproducing a lithograph by Jean DuBois (1789-1849). The intricate process involves applying multiple layers of enamel pigments that are fired at temperatures exceeding 800°C after each application, requiring a month of patient, meticulous handwork.
Figurative Guillochage and Miniature Grand Feu Enamel: This platinum timepiece reinterprets an early 20th-century illustration from the Charnaux company. The dial combines hand guillochage with Grand Feu enamel on a yellow gold base. The buildings surrounding the Tour de l'Île are depicted as simple black line drawings to highlight the tower itself. This innovative approach required approximately 16 hours of figurative guillochage and 40 hours of miniature Grand Feu enameling.
Hand Engraving: This rose gold model features a rose gold dial inspired by an 1822 engraving by Pierre Escuyer (1749-1834). The dial is engraved in bas-relief, with the master engraver creating a trompe-l'oeil effect on a plate barely one millimeter thick. This masterpiece of manual engraving required over 140 hours of work.All three models share the same elegant proportions with a 40mm diameter case and a thickness of 9.42mm. Each features a sapphire crystal officer-style caseback engraved with Geneva's motto "Post Tenebras Lux" ("After Darkness, Light"). Powered by the self-winding Caliber 2460, these timepieces display hours and minutes and bear the prestigious Geneva Seal.
All three models share the same elegant proportions: a 40mm diameter case with a thickness of 9.42mm. Each features a sapphire crystal officer-style caseback engraved with Geneva's motto "Post Tenebras Lux" ("After Darkness, Light"), which dates back to the 16th century and symbolizes the city's commitment to freedom, independence, and progress.
The watches are powered by Vacheron Constantin's self-winding Caliber 2460, which displays hours and minutes with a power reserve of approximately 40 hours. Each timepiece bears the prestigious Geneva Seal, certifying both the exceptional craftsmanship and the fact that the watch was designed and manufactured in Geneva Canton.
Patrimony Moonphase Retrograde Date: A Symphony of Complexity and Elegance
The Patrimony Moonphase Retrograde Date represents a significant milestone for the Patrimony collection, introducing for the first time the distinctive curved dial decorated with a special 270th anniversary pattern. This sophisticated timepiece is available in two precious metal variants – 18K white gold (Ref. 4010U/000G-H057) and 18K 5N pink gold (Ref. 4010U/000R-H117).
Each version is meticulously crafted with a silver-toned dial featuring a dedicated décor inspired by the Maltese cross, Vacheron Constantin's emblematic symbol. The watches are equipped with 18K gold applied hour-markers and bi-faceted baton-type hands for hours and minutes, complemented by a blued 18K gold retrograde date hand that elegantly sweeps across the dial.
Powered by the Calibre 2460 R31L/270, the watch displays hours, minutes, a retrograde date, and a precision moonphase with age of the moon indicator. This self-winding movement comprises 275 components and 27 jewels, offering a power reserve of 40 hours while operating at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour).
Both versions come with a green alligator leather strap featuring tone-on-tone stitching and square scales, paired with a pin buckle in the corresponding case material. With a case diameter of 42.5mm and a thickness of 9.73mm, these watches offer a water resistance of 3 bar.
In a nod to exclusivity, production is strictly limited to 270 pieces for each variant, with delivery scheduled for July 2025.
Also Read: Vacheron Constantin's Two Week Tourbillon
Patrimony Self-Winding: Minimalist Perfection in Precious Metals
The Patrimony Self-Winding models embody the collection's deliberately minimalist approach while introducing the anniversary dial pattern for the first time in this line. Available in 18K white gold (Ref. 85180/000G-H035) and 18K 5N pink gold (Ref. 85180/000R-H116), these timepieces feature silver-toned dials adorned with the 270th dedicated pattern inspired by the Maltese cross.
The clean dial design showcases 18K gold applied hour-markers and baton-type hands for hours and minutes, with a practical calendar aperture.
The watches are powered by the Calibre 2450 Q6/270, a self-winding movement measuring 26.2mm in diameter and 3.6mm in thickness. This refined mechanism contains 196 components and 27 jewels, providing a 40-hour power reserve while beating at 4Hz. It displays hours, minutes, central seconds, and a date window, with a stop-seconds device allowing precise time setting.
Each version is fitted with a green alligator leather strap featuring tone-on-tone stitching and square scales, secured by a pin buckle in the corresponding case material. With a case diameter of 40mm and a thickness of 8.65mm, these watches offer a water resistance of 3 bar.
Limited to 370 pieces per variant, the Patrimony Self-Winding models will be available from April 2025, coinciding with the Watches & Wonders 2025 Geneva fair.
Traditionnelle Manual-Winding: Refined Simplicity in Premium Materials
The Traditionnelle Manual-Winding collection presents two distinct variations, offering a perfect balance between horological tradition and contemporary refinement. The most exclusive version comes in 950 platinum (Ref. 82172/000P-H062), while a more accessible option is available in 18K 5N pink gold (Ref. 82172/000R-H118).
Both models feature silver-toned dials adorned with the 270th-anniversary decoration inspired by the Maltese cross.
The elegant displays include 18K gold applied hour-markers, Dauphine-type hour and minute hands, and a small seconds hand, all crafted in 18K gold.
These timepieces are powered by the in-house manual-winding Calibre 4400 AS/270, which measures 28.6mm in diameter and 2.8mm in thickness. Comprising 127 components and 21 jewels, this movement offers an impressive 65-hour power reserve while operating at 4Hz.
The anniversary edition features a special "Côte Unique" finishing on the bridge, elevating its status within the realm of fine watchmaking.
Both versions come fitted with a grey alligator leather strap featuring tone-on-tone stitching and square scales, secured by a pin buckle in the corresponding case material. With a case diameter of 38mm and a thickness of 7.77mm, these timepieces offer a water resistance of 3 bar.
Limited to 370 pieces per variant, the Traditionnelle Manual-Winding watches will be available from July 2025.
Traditionnelle Moonphase: Poetic Complexity for the Discerning Collector
The Traditionnelle Moonphase (Ref. 83570/000R-H060) represents the pinnacle of feminine elegance within the anniversary collection. Housed in an 18K 5N pink gold case measuring 36mm in diameter and 9.13mm in thickness, this timepiece features a bezel and lugs set with 80 round-cut diamonds (approximately 1.13 carats), complemented by a diamond-set crown (approximately 0.14 carats).
The dial showcases mother-of-pearl adorned with the special 270th-anniversary decoration, creating a canvas of ethereal beauty for the 18K gold applied hour-markers and Dauphine-type hands. The precision moon phase indicator and power reserve display alongside the hours, minutes, and small seconds, add functional complexity to this exquisite timepiece.
At its heart beats the Calibre 1410 AS, a manual-winding movement measuring 26mm in diameter and 4.2mm in thickness. Comprising 175 components and 22 jewels, this refined mechanism offers a 38-hour power reserve while operating at 4 Hz. The watch comes fitted with a pink alligator leather strap featuring a stitched tip and square scales, secured by an 18K 5N pink gold pin buckle. Limited to 270 pieces, this exquisite creation will be available from April 2025.
Traditionnelle Manual-Winding for Ladies: Elegant Simplicity
The Traditionnelle Manual-Winding for ladies (Ref. 1405T/000R-H061) offers refined elegance in a compact package. Housed in an 18K 5N pink gold case measuring 33mm in diameter and 7.73mm in thickness, this timepiece features a bezel and lugs set with 54 round-cut diamonds (approximately 0.87 carats).
The mother-of-pearl dial carries the special 270th-anniversary decoration, providing a luminous backdrop for the 18K gold applied hour-markers and Dauphine-type hands. This elegant timepiece displays hours and minutes with pristine simplicity.
Powering this refined creation is the Calibre 1440/270, a manual-winding movement measuring 22.1mm in diameter and 2.6mm in thickness. Comprising 116 components and 19 jewels, this mechanism offers a 42-hour power reserve while operating at 4 Hz.
The watch comes fitted with a pink alligator leather strap featuring a stitched tip and square scales, secured by an 18K 5N pink gold pin buckle. Limited to 270 pieces, this refined timepiece will be available from April 2025.
Traditionnelle Openface: A Trilogy of Mechanical Artistry Revealed
To commemorate its remarkable 270-year journey of uninterrupted creativity, Vacheron Constantin unveils three exceptional limited editions within the Traditionnelle collection. Each timepiece celebrates the Maison's historical signatures—openworked dials and retrograde displays—showcasing both technical excellence and stylistic innovation.
Perhaps the most technically impressive piece in the collection, the Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface (Ref. 4020T/000P-H038) represents a masterful blend of traditional craftsmanship and contemporary design. Housed in a 950 platinum case measuring 41mm in diameter and 11.05mm in thickness, this timepiece features a hand-guilloché openface dial adorned with the 270th-anniversary decoration inspired by the Maltese cross.
The silver-toned display features 18K gold applied hour-markers, Dauphine-type hour and minute hands, and a blued 18K gold date hand.
This sophisticated timepiece displays hours, minutes, and a complete calendar (day of the week, date, month, and precision moon phase), powered by the Calibre 2460 QCL/270. This self-winding movement measures 29mm in diameter and 5.45mm in thickness, comprising 308 components and 27 jewels. It offers a 40-hour power reserve while operating at 4 Hz.
The openworked dial reveals part of the 312-component self-winding mechanism, allowing collectors to appreciate the intricate beauty of the calendar functions. The date is displayed around the periphery of the dial using an elegant blued hand, while the day and month indications appear on transparent sapphire discs set against a deep blue background. The precision moon-phase display requires adjustment only once every 122 years, accurately tracking the moon's actual cycle.
The Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date Openface introduces a new self-winding manufacture movement, Calibre 2460 QPR31/270. This innovative calibre combines a perpetual calendar with a retrograde date display, representing the pinnacle of mechanical sophistication.
The perpetual calendar displays days, months, and a leap-year cycle, requiring no correction until 2100. These indications are complemented by a moonphase aperture at 6 o'clock with a realistically designed lunar surface. The retrograde date display elegantly arcs across the upper part of the dial, adding both technical interest and enhanced legibility.
The openworked dial offers a captivating view of the intricate mechanism while maintaining perfect legibility. The sapphire discs bearing day, month, and leap-year indications are set against a deep blue background, creating a striking visual contrast while enhancing the airy appearance of the calibre. Despite its complexity, this new manufacture calibre measures just 5.45mm in thickness, demonstrating Vacheron Constantin's mastery of ultra-thin watchmaking.
Completing the trilogy is the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface, powered by the self-winding Calibre 2162 R31/270. This 242-component manufacture movement combines a tourbillon regulator at 6 o'clock with a retrograde date display whose intricate mechanics are visible through the upper portion of the openworked dial.
Operating at a deliberate 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz) and measuring just 6.35mm thick thanks to its peripheral gold oscillating weight, this calibre offers an impressive 72-hour power reserve. The tourbillon cage, completing one rotation per minute, counteracts the effects of gravity on the balance wheel's oscillations, enhancing chronometric precision.
The openworked dial, adorned with the anniversary hand-guilloché pattern, creates a mesmerizing play of light and shadow with every movement of the wrist. The retrograde date complication demonstrates both technical prowess and practical elegance, while the exposed tourbillon allows collectors to admire the "whirlwind" in action.
All three models come fitted with large square-scaled, hand-sewn alligator leather straps with tone-on-tone saddle-stitching and platinum pin buckles shaped as half Maltese crosses. Each model is limited to 370 pieces and will be available from April 2025.
Images courtesy: Vacheron Constantin
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