WatchTime India Exclusive

Icon Reborn: King Seiko VANAC returns with bold design, refined mechanics, and the spirit of Tokyo’s skyline

Seiko’s reintroduction of the King Seiko VANAC line after almost 50 years puts the focus once again on daring 70s design

Seiko’s King Seiko launched VANAC watches in 1972, a set of funky and colourful timepieces that reflected modern aesthetics for the time. After almost 50 years of hiatus, the brand was relaunched in 2022 with a new line, inspired by 1965 King Seiko KSK models – the second watch in the King Seiko line. This year, the brand is building the King Seiko universe by reviving its VANAC line with a collection of colourful mechanical watches in five bold and beautiful iterations inspired by the birthplace of King Seiko – Tokyo. 

King Seiko VANAC 

First launched in 1972, VANAC watches were a step ahead from the classic and often minimalist King Seiko aesthetic. They embodied the bold and vibrant spirit of the 1970s, aiming to appeal to younger, more fashion-conscious clients. They featured multi-faceted unique case shapes encasing vivid dial colours topped with faceted crystals – a defining feature for the watches. These models featured a large day-date window at 3 o’clock, along with a slightly-recessed crown at the same position. The watches were powered by automatic Hi-Beat movements and came dressed in solid-link integrated metal bracelets in polished and brushed finishing. 

Building on this legacy of the original models, the new VANAC watches take inspiration from Tokyo's horizon at different times of day: Evening twilight, midnight, and sunrise. SLA083, the reference taking centre stage in this story, picks its hues from the twilight sky featuring a purple textured dial, with the texture being a recurring feature in all models in different colours. The dial features horizontal stripes with varying thickness sitting in the centre – around it is the minute track ensconced between gold rings, one of which is dodecagonal. There are bold pentagon shaped hour markers with the hour marker at 12 featuring a bold V shaped motif that can also be seen in the counter weight of the seconds hand, complementing the gold solid central hour and minute hands. All hands and hour markers are filled with LumiBrite, Seiko’s proprietary luminescence material. There is also a gold-framed and beveled date window positioned at 3 o’clock. 

There is a date window at 3 o'clock

The watch holds a bold presence on the wrist with a case measuring 41 mm, crafted entirely in stainless steel. The design of the case is architecturally angular making it look like it has been sculpted from a block of metal. The case is finished with a mix of brushed and polished finish - it features distortion free mirror finish polishing achieved through advanced techniques creating a dynamic play of shadows and highlights. It comes with a screw-down recessed crown offering a water resistance of 100 metres. 

The case measures 41 mm

Being bezel free also gives the watch a sleek look. There is a box-shaped sapphire crystal above the dial, marking the thickness of the timepiece at 14.3 mm. It features integrated lugs and the newly designed stainless-steel faceted links bracelet with mirror and hairline finishes along with polished bevels fastened with a triple-folding clasp integrated with a push-button release measuring 17 mm at the lugs down to 11 mm at the clasp for maximum comfort. 

The stainless-steel bracelet features faceted links

The watches are powered by the new Caliber 8L45

Turning the watch reveals the new Caliber 8L45, offering an accuracy range of +10 to -5 seconds per day. It is visible through a sapphire crystal caseback – a first for King Seiko – featuring the King Seiko ‘shield’ motif . The Caliber 8L45 offers a power reserve of 72 hours thanks to an improved mainspring. The movement was meticulously engineered to embody the robustness, precision, and endurance demanded of modern mechanical sports watches. Beyond its technical reliability, the movement also reflects a refined aesthetic sensibility—its rotor and bridges are beautifully decorated with wave patterns, a detail that elevates the mechanism from purely functional to truly luxurious. This harmonious blend of durability and artistry underscores the movement’s dual character: a powerhouse built for performance, yet finished with the elegance expected of fine watchmaking.

Dial colours 

Apart from the digital cover watch, there are four more models in the collection. SLA085 features a navy dial with silver highlights inspired by the midnight hues of the Tokyo horizon, and the SLA087 features a silver dial with gold highlights inspired by the hues of Tokyo's sunrise. Joining the collection is also a limited edition watch: SLA089 Limited Edition, 700 pieces, which draws inspiration from the sunrise over Tokyo, a theme also explored within the main collection. In this exclusive interpretation, the motif is brought to life through a radiant golden dial, complemented by a matching golden ‘Seiko’ emblem on the dial and ‘King Seiko’ crest on the caseback. There is also a Seiko Boutique Exclusive SLA091 that offers a contrasting expression of Tokyo’s natural beauty. Its ice-blue dial captures the brilliance of a clear sky reflected over the city on a bright day. This exclusive creation became available in Seiko Boutiques worldwide from last month. 

The dial in ice-blue

All watches share the same technical specifications in the King Seiko VANAC line, ensuring that while their aesthetics are unique, their performance and construction remain firmly aligned with Seiko’s modern standards of precision and durability. 

The evolution of a Japanese watchmaking icon

When King Seiko was introduced in 1961, Japan was in the midst of a remarkable transformation. The nation, rebuilding itself after the devastation of the Second World War, was experiencing a period of extraordinary economic growth. It was in this climate of progress that King Seiko was born: A high-performance wristwatch that married technical precision with elegant, forward-looking design. 

The origins of King Seiko trace back to the Kameido district of Tokyo, home to Daini Seikosha, a watch manufacturing division of Seikosha (what Seiko was originally named) founded in 1892. Established in 1937, Daini Seikosha endured immense challenges during the Pacific War, including the destruction of its production plant. Yet, with resilience rooted in the local shitamachi spirit —Tokyo’s ‘downtown’ character of pride and perseverance—the manufacture rebuilt itself. Out of this spirit emerged a vision for a watch that would embody Japanese craftsmanship and ambition: King Seiko. 

The inaugural King Seiko of 1961, the King Seiko J14102E, was a bold statement of intent. With sharply angled hands, imposing indexes, and a slim yet commanding gold-plated 35 mm case, it stood apart as a timepiece of modern refinement. Beneath the surface, a manual-winding movement with 25 jewels powered the watch, reflecting the technical sophistication Seiko was beginning to achieve. Positioned as a luxury wristwatch, the model retailed between 12,000 Yen and 15,000 Yen—equivalent to the starting salary of a university graduate at the time. This strategic placement made King Seiko a desirable yet attainable symbol of success. 

As Japan’s watch industry matured, Seiko’s ambitions grew. A parallel journey unfolded between King Seiko and Grand Seiko, with both brands striving for the pinnacle of accuracy and quality. While Grand Seiko became the ultimate expression of precision engineering, King Seiko offered a distinctive design language deeply rooted in Tokyo’s urban modernity. 

While most King Seiko watches embodied restrained elegance, the 1970s saw a departure with the VANAC series. Featuring vivid dial colours, innovative case shapes, and daring faceting, the models reflected Japan’s growing appetite for stylistic experimentation. They expanded King Seiko’s design vocabulary, showing that the brand could be both timeless and boldly contemporary. By the late 1970s, the rise of quartz technology had transformed the global watch industry and King Seiko quietly vanished as the production was eventually shut down. 

The latest Tokyo inspired VANAC watch

More than 50 years later, in 2022, King Seiko was reborn. Revived with modern technology yet faithful to its original design codes, the collection reintroduced the sharp lines, faceted lugs, and refined proportions that had once defined its character, with the launch of the latest Tokyo inspired VANAC watches, it is rewriting its own story. King Seiko is going back to its roots but is destined to grow for the future. 

Images Courtesy: Sanjay Ahlawat and Seiko
Post-production: Kritajna Naik K

Specification

King Seiko VANAC

MANUFACTURER

Seiko

REFERENCE NUMBER

SLA083

FUNCTIONS

Hours, minutes, stop-seconds, date

MOVEMENT

Automatic Caliber 8L45

CASE

Stainless steel

STRAP AND CLASP

Stainless steel bracelet; Deployment clasp with push button release

DIMENSIONS

Thickness:14.3 mm; Diameter:41.0 mm; Lug-to-lug:45.1 mm

PRICE

Rs 3,20,000 (approx.)

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