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Watches and Wonders 2023: The watches that stood out

Watches and Wonders 2023 wrapped up in Geneva on 2nd April, we've brought together the list of timepieces that stood out or their innovation, craftsmanship, mechanics, and more
Bell & Ross - BR 03-93 GMT Blue
Bell & Ross introduces the new BR 03-93 GMT inspired by the aircraft cockpits that serves as a professional tool for aviators. This new model is the updated version of the Maison’s BR 03-51 GMT Titanium model launched back in 2007. 
The 42mm case is crafted in stainless steel with a bidirectional rotating bezel having a 24-hour scale marked over a blue and grey coloured anodised aluminium ring. The blue sunray dial has indices and skeletonised hands filled with Super-LumiNova® having a green emission. The striking red indicator triangle adds to the legibility of this GMT watch. The date aperture lies between 4 and 5 o’clock. Automatic calibre BR-CAL.303 powers the watch and the watch offers a water resistance of up to 100 metres.

Parmigiani Fleurier - TONDA PF Minute Rattrapante, a 2023 World Premiere


Parmigiani brings World Premier of the TONDA PF Minute Rattrapante at Watches and Wonders 2023 a year after TONDA PF GMT Rattrapante created ripples at the watch fair back in 2022. The new Minute Rattrapante replaces the graduated bezel, an important aspect of a diver’s watch, with the movement itself. 
The 40mm case and bracelet are made with satin-finished stainless steel and the sand grey dial has a Grain d’Orge hand-guilloché finish. The skeletonized delta-shaped hands are in 18K gold with rhodium-plated appliques. Automatic manufacture PF052 movement powers the watch and offers about 48 hours of reserve.


IWC Schaffhausen Ingenieur Automatic 40
Swiss watchmaker, IWC Schaffhausen took to the 1970’s Gérald Genta’s Ingenieur SL, Reference 1832, to create the new Ingenieur Automatic 40, a classic steel sports watch. The Maison introduced three models in stainless steel and one in titanium. 


For the models with a stainless steel case, Ref. IW328901 has a black dial, Ref. IW328902 has a silver-plated dial, and Ref. IW328903 has an aqua dial. The dials feature a “Grid” structure with rhodium-plated hands and appliques. The one with a Grade 5 titanium case, Ref. IW328904, features a grey dial with black hands and appliques. The cases and bracelets are polished and satin-finished and the bezel is fixed to the case with five polygonal screws.
IWC-manufactured 32111 calibre powers the timepieces and offers about 120 hours of reserve. To protect the movement from magnetic fields, the inner case is made with soft iron. In addition, the watches are water-resistant to 100 metres.

The first Grand Seiko mechanical chronograph- the Tentagraph: SLGC001
Grand Seiko expands its collection of sports watches in the Evolution 9 series with its first mechanical chronograph, named Tentagraph, at the ongoing fair in Geneva. The highlight of the watch lies in its movement, the high-beat Caliber 9SA5, which beats ten times per second to offer a precision of +5 to -3 seconds per day, and a power reserve of 3 days. TENTAGRAPH stands for - TEN beats per second, Three days, Automatic chronoGRAPH.


The dial is inspired by the contour patterns of Mt. Iwate. Crafted with high-intensity titanium, the 43.2mm watch is lightweight, robust and resistant to scratches. 


Montblanc 1858 Geosphere Chronograph 0 Oxygen The 8000 Limited Edition 290 – 44mm
The model paid tribute to Mark Maker Nimsdai Purja for his exceptional ascent to Mount Everest in May 2022. The 44m titanium case features slim curves and a satin finish. The bi-directional bezel is crafted in stainless steel with black ceramic, on which the ​​cardinal points are engraved and coated with Super-LumiNova®. The Sfumato dark grey glacier pattern dial features Arabic numerals and indexes. The indices and hands are layered with white luminescent, as well as on the Northern and Southern hemispheres globes that feature Greenwich meridians in orange. Other features include a 24-hour scale, day and night indication, and date displayed by a disc. 


The engraving on the caseback features the profiles and list of the 14 Eight Thousander peaks given by Nimsdai, two of his inspirational quotes, the watch’s name, three Himalayan prayer flags that denote good fortune and the words “Limited Edition”.



Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding
The Overseas welcomes four new models in new sizes. Available in pink, gold and steel, the novelties measure 35 mm for the two gem-set versions and 34.5mm for the two non-set models. 
The 18k 5N pink gold versions feature the iconic blue dial while the steel watch set with 90 diamonds comes in a delicate shade of pink. All four models indicate the hours and minutes as well as a central seconds, a date display at 3 o'clock, and a minutes track running around the rim of the dial.


Equipped with the Calibre 1088/1, the Overseas self-winding models offer a 40-hour power reserve. They come fitted with an integrated metal bracelet in 18K 5N gold or steel, depending on the model, as well as two additional interchangeable leather and rubber straps. 

TUDOR Black Bay
First launched in 2012, the new Black Bay is the third iteration of TUDOR’s iconic diving watch. The timepiece features a 41mm stainless steel case, a proportion similar to that of the “original”, with a 60-minute unidirectional bezel in burgundy. The black dial is delicately brushed and domed, and feature gold accents along with TUDOR’s “snowflake” hands applied with LumiNova®. 


Manufacture Calibre MT5602-U drives the watch and offers about 70 hours of power reserve.  The watch comes with a choice of three-link “rivet-style” or five-oval-shaped-link bracelet or an additional rubber strap, all with a “T-fit” rapid adjustment clasp for an adjustable fit around the wearer’s wrist.

Rolex - Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona
First launched in 1963, the Daytona celebrates its 60th anniversary this year and to its celebrations, Rolex launched the new Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona at Watches and Wonders 2023, in 32 versions.


The new launch is the redesign of its ancestor with subtle upgrades but has a major upgrade in its movement from calibre 4130 to automatic calibre 4131 that also incorporates the Chronergy escapement which is magnetic resistant. Other movement features include a Parachrom hairspring (manufactured in-house by Rolex), Paraflex shock absorbers, and a new oscillating weight with an optimised ball bearing. The new movement integration offers a power reserve of about 72 hours. 


Patek Philippe Calatrava 
Launched in 1932, the Calatrava collection has always exuded elegance. In 2023, it welcomes the new Calatrava Reference 5224R-001 with a Travel Time dual time zone and an original 24-hour display. Powered by the new calibre 31-260 PS FUS 24H self-winding movement, the novelty allows the wearer to correct the local time using the crown with its new patented system. 


The new Calatrava comes in a rose-gold case with a blue dial adorned with numerals, hour markers, and five-minute cabochons all in rose gold.


Panerai Radiomir California
For the first time ever, Panerai reveals the Radiomir California PAM 1349 in a 45mm case. 


The cushion-shaped case is set in Brunito eSteelTM - another first by the brand - and accompanied by slim wire lugs, and a hollowed and textured green dial. Inspired by Ref 3646, the new PAM 1349 carries the characteristic alternating Roman and Arabic numerals, bar indexes, and a minute track. The iconic California indexes in beige are coated in Super-LumiNova and complement the metallic blue hands within the domed sapphire crystal. The watch also features a cone-shaped crown and sits on a supple calf leather raw-cut strap with dark brown stitching. The strap displays an exclusive hot-printed inscription of G. Panerai e Figlio. 
The Radiomir California PAM 1349 is powered by the hand-wound P.5000 calibre and features an eight-day power reserve. The movement is visible through the sapphire crystal caseback.

Hermès H08 Chronograph
The new cushion-shaped Hermès H08 Chronograph joins the H08 family with a satin-finished and polished titanium bezel and an integrated black PVD-coated and orange-rimmed crown. This monopusher at 3 o'clock activates the chronograph. 
The black dials display two chronograph counters and a cushion-shaped date with orange accents, along with black-gold hands and luminescent applied numerals, and hour markers.


The H08 Chronograph is powered by the Hermès H1837 mechanical self-winding movement that includes a chronograph complication. It comes with an orange rubber strap reminiscent of the iconic Hermès weaving technique. 

Jaeger-LeCoultre - The Reverso Tribute Chronograph
Paying homage to the origins of the Reverso, the new Reverso Tribute Chronograph by Jaeger-LeCoultre reveals the quintessential sporting complication – the chronograph. The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 860 is a hand-wound chronograph movement and offers a 52-hour power reserve. The front dial of the watch features the baton hour markers, Dauphine hands, and a peripheral chemin de fer minutes track – all characteristic of the Reverso Tribute range. 


Available in both steel and pink gold, the new chronograph by the Swiss luxury watch brand comes with dark blue and black canvas-and-leather and all-leather straps respectively, designed by Argentinian polo bootmaker Casa Fagliano. The steel version encases a blue-grey dial while the pure black dial offers a stunning contrast to the pink-gold case. 


Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS
A contemporary yet sporty and chic rendition of the collection, the new Alpine Eagle 41 XPS comes with a small seconds indication, a double chronometer, and a Poinçon de Genève certification. The 41mm piece is crafted in Lucent Steel A223 and encases a textured "Monte Rosa Pink" dial which is topped with applied white gold hour markers, numerals enhanced using Grade X1 Super-LumiNova, and white gold baton-type hours and minutes hands that carry the same luminescent treatment. The case is 8mm thick and integrates a crown engraved with a compass rose on the bezel. 

The Alpina Eagle 41 XPS is equipped with the automatic-winding L.U.C. 96.40-L movement that houses a 65-hour power reserve - thanks to the brand's Twin Technology with its two stacked barrels. A 22-carat gold off-centre micro-rotor operates the automatic winding system of the movement.  


Hublot Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Full Carbon


One of the brand's pillars, the Big Bang collection welcomes the new Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Full Carbon limited edition to the family. The timepiece fuses two complications at the heart of the watch: The tourbillon and the micro-rotor. Made 100% in the Hublot manufacture, the HUB6035 Manufacture Calibre is made of carbon fibre and Texalium and can be viewed through the open-worked design of the back plate. 


Zenith Pilot Automatic
The 40mm Pilot Automatic comes in an entirely new case design with a distinct flat-top round bezel fixed on top of the rounded case. It is available in two versions: vertically satin-brushed stainless steel with polished chamfers and micro-blasted black ceramic giving a matte finish – both with an angular crown on the right. 


The black opaline dial features Zeniths' signature oversized Arabic numerals in a modern font applied as metal markers filled with white Super-LumiNova. The luminescent hour marker takes the form of a flat white line at 6 o’clock providing instant understanding as to the orientation of the watch. 


Oris ProPilot Altimeter
Carrying the world's first and only mechanical altimeter is the automatic Oris ProPilot Altimeter, in a carbon-fibre composite case - designed in collaboration with Swiss high-tech firm, 9T Labs, who developed a composite of carbon fibre and polymer called PEKK, making the new ProPilot Altimeter mechanical, heat and chemical resistant. Oris is the first watchmaker to collaborate with 9T Labs. 
The original altimeter watch from Oris was released in 2014—and the 2023 edition ups the ante by showcasing an improved altimeter that is slimmer and lightweight. The new ProPilot Altimeter comes with an improved altimeter module that can indicate an altitude of up to 19,700 feet or 6,000 meters.


TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph and TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon: “Glass Box” edition
Continuing in the vein of the 60th anniversary of the Carrera series, the new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph “Glass Box” edition comes with a stainless steel case topped with a sapphire crystal-shaped dome, inspired by the Carrera models of the 1970s, also a collector's favourite. The 39mm piece carries the curved dome over the tachymeter scale that runs around the edge of the dial and into the case. The flanges and indexes, too, have been curved. 


The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph “Glass Box” novelty is available in two models: One with a signature blue dial and a blue calfskin leather strap; and the second with a black and silver ‘reverse panda’ dial – akin to the Carreras of the 1960s. 



Images: Courtesy Brands

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