Breguet unveils type XX and Type 20 Chronograph with all-new calibre

Heading back to its aviation roots, the brand presents revamped versions of first-generation chronograph
The arrival of Breguet’s Type XX marks the completion of 70 years of aviation-led timepieces for the brand. Four years in making, the redesigned line offers two variations of the Type XX: the military-inspired Type 20 Chronographe 2057 and the civilian-inspired Type XX Chronographe 2067. While the new timepieces take their cues from the models of the first generation, Breguet has made the new generation more robust and technologically advanced. 

In the 20th century, Breguet came forth for the service of airborne navigation and many pilots owned its watches, including Alberto Santos-Dumont, American pilots, the Louis Breguet aviation company, Japanese pilots and many others. In the early 1950s, Breguet was providing its distinct wrist chronographs to Air Forces and its pieces were even worn by the likes of aviator Jacqueline Auriol, who received one of the first Type XXs. 

Military Inspired Breguet Type 20 Chronographe 2057 

The first of the two timepieces launched got its recognition from the 1100 watches which were delivered to the French Air Force in a five year span (1955 to 1959), whose name was written in Arabic numerals as Type 20, including Aéronautique Navale, mentioned as Type XX in Roman numerals. 

The 42mm new type XX has a steel case with a non-engraved fluted bidirectional bezel, and an original pear shaped crown, re-interpreting timepieces that military air forces were equipped with. The modernised black dial features a larger 30-minute counter and smaller 60-second counter at 3 and 6 o’clock respectively, while the date window is displayed between 4 and 5 o’clock. The triangle on the bezel and the hands of the watch are filled with mint green luminescent. The watch comes with interchangeable straps: Nato fabric and calfskin leather and it is water resistant up to 100m. 

Civilian Version Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2067

The second in line took its inspiration from the civilian Type XX from the 1950s and 60s. Although its dial resonates with the previous chronograph 2057, in actuality, it has some striking features. 

The civilian inspired timepiece has a fluted bidirectional graduated bezel and a usual crown. It features three counters of different diameter: larger 15-minute counter, bit smaller 60 seconds counter, and the smallest one 12-hour counter placed at 3, 9, and 6 o’clock respectively. Its triangle on the bezel, Arabic hour-markers and hands are filled with ivory-coloured luminescent
The movement includes Beating inside a self-winding calibre of 728. 

Both the pieces are powered by an all-new calibre 728 boasting the 60 hour power reserve. The Type 20 has calibre 7281, and Type XX has 728. The presence of black DLC-treated column wheel, vertical clutch, 5Hz frequency, zero-setting activation system, and flyback function shows that these timepieces are modern chronographs. The latest line has silicon-made balance spring, escape wheel, and palette-lever horns. 

Images: Courtesy Breguet

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