After the
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Tradition 7035, joining the list of Breguet’s 250th anniversary releases is Type XX Chronographe 2075. A tribute to not just founder Abraham-Louis Breguet, but also Louis Breguet, his great-great-grandson and a pioneering name in aircraft design and manufacturing, and Dieudonné Costes and Maurice Bellonte, the first people to fly from Paris to New York in 1930 in the Breguet 19TR Super Bidon plane no less, the two new watches are thoroughly seeped in the brand’s aviation connect. To add to that, the new chronograph watches with a flyback function are inspired by a historical model from 1955, which was part of the Type XX line originally created for Naval Aviation and later for civilians. This vintage timepiece originally sported a satin-finish silver dial, which was later replaced by a black dial, aspects that have been recognised in the creation of the new timepieces.
Type XX Chronographe 2075 Ref. 2075BH/99/398
Coming to these new watches - The Type XX Chronographe 2075 timepieces are 38.3mm and cast in proprietary Breguet gold, an alloy unveiled this year. Ref. 2075BH/99/398 features a black anodized dial in Duralumin, an alloy containing 95% aluminium, a material Louis Breguet pioneered in aircraft design, and Ref. 2075BH/G9/398 has a solid silver dial. In Ref. 2075BH/99/398, the brand has tried to faithfully recreate the hue of the dial of the original watch; it features a 15-minute sub-dial at 3 o’clock and a small seconds sub-dial at 9 o’clock. There are applied Arabic numerals, and the baton hands are all in Breguet gold as well. The slim bi-directional bezel on the watch has numbers pickled out in black. The fluted crown, located at 3 o'clock, has an engraved ‘B’. Turning the watch reveals a clear caseback that offers a view of the Calibre 7279, a manually wound version of Breguet Calibre 728, beating inside with a 5 Hz frequency offering a power reserve of 60 hours. It is also equipped with a flyback function that can be adjusted by a pusher at 4 o’clock. The watch is worn on a interchangeable gradient black calfskin strap and is priced at INR 38,00,000 (approx.)
Ref. 2075BH/G9/398The silver model is powered by the hand-wound Calibre 7278, also a version of Calibre 728, that too offers a 60-hour power reserve. Along with a 30-minute sub-dial at 3 o’clock, and a small seconds at 9 o’clock, there is also a tachymetric scale in this version. The dial is crafted in Silver 925, the same metal used in the original 1955 model. The dauphine hands are in Breguet gold. Blue remains an accent in this reference, with the tachymeter scale, subdials and chronograph hand presented in this contrasting colour. The numerals on the bezel are also blue in this model. Complementing the blue are bar and applied Arabic numerals (only 12 and 6) in Breguet gold. At 6 o’clock, one reads ‘retour envol,’ French for ‘flyback’. The watch is worn on an interchangeable gradient blue calfskin strap and is priced at INR 40,00,000 (approx.) It is limited to 250 pieces.
Caseback of The Type XX Chronographe 2075
Hand engravings on the caseback makes the novelties even more fascinating. The caseback traces the route of the first transatlantic flight from Paris to New York, undertaken by Costes and Bellonte and completed in the Breguet 19 aircraft, mapping the European and North American landmasses and the Atlantic Ocean.
Both the models come in a Special Edition 250th red leather box.
Images: Courtesy Brand