The new launches by Grand Seiko shows the brand's watchmaking craftsmanship. The highlights of the release is the new manual-wind high-beat movement beating inside the new dress watches introduced in the Evolution 9 collection, a new colour changing dial of the Spring Drive Chronograph GMT, and the daybreak inspired Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon.
Evolution 9 Hi-Beat 36000 80 Hours SLGW002 und SLGW003
Unlike the Spring Drive models, Grand Seiko manufactures its classic mechanical watches in Shizukuishi, 700 km away. The watch studio of the same name was designed by star architect Kengo Kuma. There, in northern Japan, birch trees thrive, whose bark forms the template for the structure of the dial.
In contrast to the SLGH005 "White Birch" introduced a few years ago (it won the coveted Red Dot Design Award in 2022), this time the dial pattern is horizontal. But the real surprise is the movement: For the first time in over 50 years, Grand Seiko is producing a new hand-wound movement. The caliber 9SA4 is derived from the automatic caliber 9SA5: It is also clocked at 36,000 vibrations per hour and is known as "Hi-Beat" due to this relatively high frequency.
Thanks to two barrels and the Grand Seiko-typical double-impulse escapement, the power reserve is 80 hours. The display of the current remaining power reserve is located on the back of the movement and is therefore visible through the sapphire crystal back. By dispensing with the automatic assembly, the movement became flatter than the 9SA5, which also benefits the watch: the 38.6 mm diameter case remains just under the 10 mm mark with a total height of 9.95 mm. In addition to the non-limited titanium version SLGW003—Rs. 10,42,000 (approx.), Grand Seiko also offers a rose gold watch SLGW002—Rs. 44,10,000 (approx.), which will only be made 80 times. Both are worn on the arm with a black or brown crocodile leather strap with a triple folding clasp and push button.
Spring Drive Chronograph GMT SBGC275
There are different ways to discover your passion for Grand Seiko . For some it is the Japanese origins, for others it is the sophisticated technology, for others it is the unique dials. Everything comes together in the new Spring Drive Chronograph GMT, reference number SBGC275. The orange-red colour of the dial immediately catches the eye: it is inspired by the sunrise in the Hotaka Mountains in the Shinshu region of central Japan. Nearby is Shiojiri, where Grand Seiko produces its Spring Drive movements and watches. This technology, which combines quartz precision with a purely mechanical winding, has been developed by Seiko since the 1970s.
The first watch that Spring Drive combined with an automatic winding device was a Grand Seiko in 2004. 20 years later, the manufacturer celebrates the beginning of the 9R caliber series with the SBGC275, which is limited to 700 pieces. Its caliber 9R96 is a further development of the well-known 9R86 and offers even greater precision of +–0.5 seconds per day. The 44.5 mm watch made of high-intensity titanium also includes a chronograph and a GMT function as well as a power reserve display of 72 hours. Thanks to the screwed crown and screwed back, the SBGC275 achieves a water resistance of 200 m. Grand Seiko puts the price at Rs. 12,47,000 (approx.)
Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon
Limited edition on only 20 pieces, the new Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon (Ref. SLGT005)
takes its inspiration from the daybreak, its design cues draws inspiration from the first mechanical complication, the Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon, launched in 2022 and won Chronometry Prize at GPGH that year.
Powering it is the manual winding Caliber 9ST1, beating at 28,800 vph, and boasting a 72-hour power reserve. The timepiece is encased in a 43.8mm case crafted with platinum 950 and brilliant hard titanium and topped with a box-shaped sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating. The heart-beat of the creation, the tourbillon can be seen at the 6 o’clock. Complementing the watch is an exclusive white leather strap, made through tanning with natural materials. Additionally, a charcoal grey crocodile strap is also offered with the watch. The timepiece is water resistant up to 100 metres.
The price of the watch is Rs. 3,43,03,000 (approx.)
This article first appeared in WatchTime.net
Images: Courtesy brand
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