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Watches and Wonders 2025: Tank Louis Cartier grows in size, and Tank à Guichet revived at Cartier

Cartier is reinterpreting its classic timepieces like Tank Louis Cartier (LC) and Panthère de Cartier at Watches and Wonders 2025
For Watches and Wonders 2025, Cartier has unveiled new iterations of its classic timepieces. The Tank Louis Cartier (LC) gets a size upgrade, and the Panthère de Cartier get new motifs inspired by the zebra and tiger. And the brand hops on the trend of window display watches with a Tank à Guichet in the Cartier Privé line.  

Tank Louis Cartier
Since its inception in 1917, the Cartier Tank has consistently evolved while remaining true to its iconic design — from the Tank Cintrée and Tank Chinoise to the Tank Asymétrique, Tank Américaine, Tank Française, and the modern Tank Must with its photovoltaic SolarBeat™ movement.

Tank Louis Cartier

The Tank Louis Cartier, first introduced in 1922, remains an expression of the Maison’s artistic vision. Today, Cartier continues to celebrate the enduring legacy of the Tank Louis Cartier by introducing a larger version, powered by the automatic movement 1899 MC. Crafted in rose gold and yellow gold, each 38.1mm x 27.75mm x 8.18mm piece is adorned with Cartier’s signature design elements: The elegant railway track, bold Roman numerals, parallel brancards, and the striking blued-steel sword-shaped hands. The iconic beaded winding crown, set with a sapphire, ruby cabochon, or an inverted pavilion diamond depending on the model, adds a final flourish of sophistication. The yellow gold and rose gold versions are finished with a grey and brown alligator leather strap respectively.

Cartier Privé
Following Louis Vuitton with its Guichet display watch – Tambour Convergence – earlier this year, Cartier is also hopping on the resurgence of watches with window displays with its latest Tank à Guichet in the Cartier Privé line. At the heart of the new Tank lies the hand-wound 9755 MC movement, featuring jumping hours and dragging minutes, exclusively crafted for the Tank à Guichets. 

Tank à Guichet in the Cartier Privé line

Just like its historic predecessor, the winding crown retains its signature placement at 12 o’clock. The refined satin-finish case contrasts harmoniously with the polished horizontal brancards, accentuating the sleek geometry of the Tank. The central face, crafted in brushed gold or platinum, exudes understated luxury. 


This interpretation is available in two distinct styles. The first model remains faithful to the original 1928 design, showcasing an hour aperture at 12 o’clock and a minute aperture at 6 o’clock, offered in yellow gold, rose gold, or platinum. There is also a limited-edition platinum model, with only 200 numbered pieces available. This exclusive version features asymmetrically positioned apertures, a nod to the avant-garde spirit of the 1930s. 

All the watches in this line are available in 37.6mm X 24.8mm X 6 mm and are not water-resistant.

Panthère de Cartier watch 
Cartier, once again, reimagines Panthère watch — a sublime blend of fine jewellery and horological artistry. This latest iteration draws inspiration from the animal kingdom, staying away from panther motifs that has been a signature for the Panthère de Cartier line, these vibrant timepieces capture the essence of both zebra and tiger motifs in a vibrant amalgamation. 

Panthère de Cartier watch

The brilliance of this collection is evident in the meticulous design of the bracelet and dial. With 314 brilliant-cut diamonds and 86 spessartites embellishing its bracelet and the intricate snow-setting of the dial, adorned with 145 brilliant-cut diamonds, highlights the Maison's exceptional artistry. The time piece took over 110 hours of dedicated craftsmanship.
 

Along with that, the Panthère watch is also available in rose gold or yellow gold with a semi-paved bracelet, delicately set with brilliant-cut diamonds in a gradient design. A white dial, framed by a diamond-set bezel elevates the watch's elegance and modernity. The semi-paved variations are available in three sizes: Yellow gold in 36.5mm X 26.7mm and 30.3mm X 22mm, rose gold in 30.3mm X 22mm and, the smallest one in the collection, 25mm X 20mm. The Panthère watch operates on a quartz movement. 

Panthère de Cartier watch in rose gold 

Another addition in the line is the latest jewellery watch, Toi & Moi Panthère. Drawing from the Maison's iconic heritage, this watch pairs a three-dimensional panther with a delicate timepiece. Crafted in yellow or white gold, the panther's signature black lacquer spots contrast against its polished yellow gold body, while its piercing tsavorite eyes lend a vibrant intensity. A black lacquer dial beneath a diamond-paved bezel with a single diamond at 12 o’clock serves as an hour marker.

Toi & Moi Panthère watch in white gold

There is a white gold variation adorned with an astonishing 1,100 diamonds, brought to life after 230 hours of dedicated craftsmanship. The distinctive fur setting technique, a hallmark of Cartier, involves delicately folding metal around onyx to create the illusion of hair, adding to the panther’s lifelike allure. Both novelties are powered by the quartz movement and are available in wrist sizes of 150/160/170 mm.

Cartier Tressage 
With the Tressage watch, Cartier transforms gold, diamonds, and precious stones into a sculptural masterpiece which is a continuation of the Maison's Maillon, Coussin, and Reflection watches. 

Cartie Tressage

The watch features two graceful twists of gold and diamonds that elegantly frame a rectangular dial, paved with snow-set diamonds. These luxurious creations are a tribute to Jeanne Toussaint, Cartier’s first female creative director, who was appointed in 1933. In the Tressage watch, her legacy lives on, with materials unfolding into endless possibilities of brilliance and texture.

Available in four iterations: Yellow and white gold set with case and buckle set with 466 brilliant-cut diamonds and the white gold dial set with 156 brilliant-cut diamonds, another pure yellow gold version comes with a contrasting black lacquered dial and a matching strap, two variations are available in white gold – one with its case, buckle and dial set with over a 1000 brilliant-cut diamonds, another one with 330 brilliant-cut sapphires along with 570 brilliant-cut diamonds on the case and buckle. Both white gold versions are finished with a navy blue strap.  


All the four iterations in the line are powered by a quartz movement and measure 56.2 X 25.7 X 1.5 mm. All watches come with a second choice of strap. 

Images: Courtesy Cartier 
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